Any ignition guru's out there - Page 2

classof65 · 06-03-2007, 09:19 PM

The car has grounds as follows.

Braided body ground to block. ground from block to frame, ground from battery to both the engine and frame - the MSD is grounded on the battery negative. I have a ground wire from the ateering column to the engine as well. Of course there are other grounds for switches and stuff.

I have disconnected all of the rpm switches that operated the retard unti and have the box wired as ignition only. I've unpluged the tach, removed the high rpm limit chip.

I was attempting to cure the double or tripple pop at the launch AND the light pop at the top of the gears. All I did was add a shielded ground and now the thing won't start - well it starts and burps and grunts then quite. I've even reversed the green and purple wires in the lead as a validation.

On Oh S--t I didn't mention. When I was getting ready to change the cable I thought I had turned the master switch off but hadn't and of course the first thing I did was short out the main (heavy to battery) lead to the MSD box. Not for long as it only went CRACK once. I wouldn't have thought that would hurt the box, but who knows. I wired it back to begin with the same way it was wired before - timing was checked before I did the work - yes it was skipping around and I did use a non degree wheel style lite. I would have thought at WORST I would have had a car that would run as it did with no improvement but also with no loss in power. Now I have a car that won't even run. I've gone over the wiring a half dozen times.

HELP

Peace, Rev.

Alan Roehrich · 06-03-2007, 09:29 PM

I'm sure that did not do the box any good. Most of that stuff has some fusible traces built in to prevent extreme damage in case of a short like that, I'd say you blew a trace.

Can you not run the engine on just a distributor and coil? Just a question, not knowing what distributor you have.

Alan Roehrich

Bring "AA" classes to NHRA Stock Eliminator!

classof65 · 06-03-2007, 09:38 PM

It's an MSD pro billit distributor. Don't think it will operate that way.

This has rapidly become a pain in the rump... I hate electrical work. Engines are child's play compared to electric stuff for me.

Peace, Rev.

Alan Roehrich · 06-03-2007, 09:47 PM

Quote:

It's an MSD pro billit distributor. Don't think it will operate that way.

This has rapidly become a pain in the rump... I hate electrical work. Engines are child's play compared to electric stuff for me.

Peace, Rev.

Correct, a Pro Billet (non "Ready to Run") does not have a module, just a magnetic pickup. It cannot fire a coil by itself.

To test the pickup, attach a voltmeter to the magnetic trigger wires (disconnect them from the box, you're testing the distributor) and set it to "AC volts". Spin the distributor, either with the engine, or by hand if you have it out. It should make 2 <-> 6 volts AC.

The signs actually point to a bad box, but check the distributor, and try a "known good" coil.

Alan Roehrich

Bring "AA" classes to NHRA Stock Eliminator!

Brian Holcombe · 06-03-2007, 09:59 PM

Got a spare box?

Alan Roehrich · 06-03-2007, 10:04 PM

Other quick tests with a volt/ohm meter:

Make sure that when running, you have 13 volts or better on the positive leads for the MSD.

There should be little resistance and no voltage on the ground wires.

Alan Roehrich

Bring "AA" classes to NHRA Stock Eliminator!

Adger Smith · 06-03-2007, 10:19 PM

Replace the coil wire & check the carbon contact in the dist cap. Take the on/off master switch out of the system. For test purposes put all the connecting wires on one side of the switch.

Adger Smith

david cron · 06-03-2007, 11:17 PM

replace the rotor cap in distributor

david cron

classof65 · 06-04-2007, 08:07 PM

Tested the box, it is working. MSD feels it's the pickup in the distributor. Dave, haven't heard from ytou in a long time. Hope all's well. We miss Music City.... Especially now that we have a class car.

The cap and rotor will be replaced too. Hope that's all there is to this problem.

Peace, and THANKS everyone, Rev.

Bruce Fulper · 06-04-2007, 08:17 PM

Koop!
As you know by now, Wally Parks, Tom Compton, Len and your local Div director OWES you a new distributor. (And a case of your favortie oil,) So simply make that phone call and I believe it will be taken care of.

Your pal in need,
(indeed?)
BF

cheese.......

"The future isn't what it used to be."

06-03-2007, 09:29 PM	#12
Alan Roehrich Veteran Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 5,109 Likes: 1,570 Liked 1,802 Times in 411 Posts	I'm sure that did not do the box any good. Most of that stuff has some fusible traces built in to prevent extreme damage in case of a short like that, I'd say you blew a trace. Can you not run the engine on just a distributor and coil? Just a question, not knowing what distributor you have. Alan Roehrich Bring "AA" classes to NHRA Stock Eliminator! __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S

06-03-2007, 10:04 PM	#16
Alan Roehrich Veteran Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 5,109 Likes: 1,570 Liked 1,802 Times in 411 Posts	Other quick tests with a volt/ohm meter: Make sure that when running, you have 13 volts or better on the positive leads for the MSD. There should be little resistance and no voltage on the ground wires. Alan Roehrich Bring "AA" classes to NHRA Stock Eliminator! __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S

06-03-2007, 10:19 PM	#17
Adger Smith VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Texarkana Ark/TX Posts: 2,446 Likes: 575 Liked 880 Times in 311 Posts	Replace the coil wire & check the carbon contact in the dist cap. Take the on/off master switch out of the system. For test purposes put all the connecting wires on one side of the switch. Adger Smith __________________ Adger Smith (Former SS)

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06-03-2007, 09:19 PM	#11
classof65 Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 37 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	The car has grounds as follows. Braided body ground to block. ground from block to frame, ground from battery to both the engine and frame - the MSD is grounded on the battery negative. I have a ground wire from the ateering column to the engine as well. Of course there are other grounds for switches and stuff. I have disconnected all of the rpm switches that operated the retard unti and have the box wired as ignition only. I've unpluged the tach, removed the high rpm limit chip. I was attempting to cure the double or tripple pop at the launch AND the light pop at the top of the gears. All I did was add a shielded ground and now the thing won't start - well it starts and burps and grunts then quite. I've even reversed the green and purple wires in the lead as a validation. On Oh S--t I didn't mention. When I was getting ready to change the cable I thought I had turned the master switch off but hadn't and of course the first thing I did was short out the main (heavy to battery) lead to the MSD box. Not for long as it only went CRACK once. I wouldn't have thought that would hurt the box, but who knows. I wired it back to begin with the same way it was wired before - timing was checked before I did the work - yes it was skipping around and I did use a non degree wheel style lite. I would have thought at WORST I would have had a car that would run as it did with no improvement but also with no loss in power. Now I have a car that won't even run. I've gone over the wiring a half dozen times. HELP Peace, Rev.

06-03-2007, 09:38 PM	#13
classof65 Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 37 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	It's an MSD pro billit distributor. Don't think it will operate that way. This has rapidly become a pain in the rump... I hate electrical work. Engines are child's play compared to electric stuff for me. Peace, Rev.

06-03-2007, 09:59 PM	#15
Brian Holcombe Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Hamilton NJ Posts: 68 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Got a spare box?

06-03-2007, 11:17 PM	#18
david cron Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: gallatin, tn Posts: 7 Likes: 0 Liked 5 Times in 1 Post	replace the rotor cap in distributor david cron

06-04-2007, 08:07 PM	#19
classof65 Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 37 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Tested the box, it is working. MSD feels it's the pickup in the distributor. Dave, haven't heard from ytou in a long time. Hope all's well. We miss Music City.... Especially now that we have a class car. The cap and rotor will be replaced too. Hope that's all there is to this problem. Peace, and THANKS everyone, Rev.

06-04-2007, 08:17 PM	#20
Bruce Fulper Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: So. Cal. Posts: 651 Likes: 4 Liked 54 Times in 33 Posts	Koop! As you know by now, Wally Parks, Tom Compton, Len and your local Div director OWES you a new distributor. (And a case of your favortie oil,) So simply make that phone call and I believe it will be taken care of. Your pal in need, (indeed?) BF cheese....... "The future isn't what it used to be."