Body roll part 2....see!!!

[Alan Roehrich]

Looks a lot like some serious frame and roll cage stiffness problems to me.

[ericsz]

the car did only have a 4 point cage in it, I have this week welded in the door bars, the car does have frame connectors on it and I are in the process of beefing them up as well. Keep in mind the car was minit tubbed and the leafs were moved in about 5 inches on each side and the shocks were moved in about 3 inches on each side. I just want it to go straight again.

[ericsz]

Ok so I took it back to the track this past weekend and as I stated I welded the door bars in and also welded the sub frame connectors solid, I also tightened the front shock adjustment and it helped quite a bit but still twists, I was wondering before I put the anti roll bar in it what you guys would think about adding another shock to the back of the car on one side. if you notice in the pictures I have 2 different mounting locations for shocks on each side, my question is if I do try this which side should I put it on. I guess I have thought about it so much I have confused myself, would I put it on the drivers side rear to try to slow down the body seperation on the drivers side or would I want to put it on the passenger side to help control the compression on that side? Some folks watched it and said its like it does nothing on the passenger side rear and its all in the drivers side rear. I have thought about it both ways and I guess it makes sense both ways, just wanting your advise as I will be trying it out one way or the other this weekend. Thanks in advance...Oh just to clarify I am saying i will be running a total of 3 rear shocks 2 on one side and one on the other

[SmallBlockNova]

No. Have you pulled your rear shocks in and checked the valving? My car used to twist with QA1 single adjustables...Turns out 1 was bad. I now have AFCO double adjustables and the twist is gone.

[Robert Simpson]

Like Small Bock said, the shocks could be your cause. Did you change shocks from side to side and see if the car reacts differently. I am sure you have done this but have you extended the shocks and see if they stop short? I am taking a wild guess now. I have seen some nice roll bars from RJ race cars and even Competition eng. Good luck.

[ericsz]

Here is an update, I am going to break down and buy an anti roll bar, shocks have all been tested and are fine, leafs were inspected and all fine, I did run an extra shock on the back of the car made 2 passes with the shock on each side, it helped quite a bit when it was on the drivers side, and almost felt worse when it was on the passenger side. I have made huge improvements to it compared to the first week out as now it is only bringing the front left tire up about 12-14 inches and the right front is at about 6 inches, I didn that by adding door bars to the cage, welding the bolt in connectors, tightening up the front shocks to full stiff (koni spa1) and installing rear aluminum leaf spring bushings. Not sure which one made the biggest difference but the car is at least driveable and raceable now as it 60'd 1.45's all night within .006. Just want it to feel better when it leaves if you know what i mean. I will be ordering the DM Products anti roll bar this week and installing it as soon as I get it.

[Robert Simpson]

Eric, to say the least you are making good progress. I am glad that it is coming around. I am sure the sway bar will take out the rest of the roll. One question does the car "dart" or pull to the right what you take off? I don't mean a sudden move to the wall or tree but I mean a noticeable move to the right when you take off. You are leaving off a brake right? No footbrake? Thanks again for the update.

Robert

[Lapeeracing]

I have been following this thread with some interest. I find it hard to imagine that a sbc would create such a problem.
I think that if you go back to before anything was changed on the car-was there a problem with body roll? If the answer is no then-what has changed? You relocated the leaf springs and rear shocks and reused the existing parts. Now we have a problem-yes? Two shocks are not going to fix it-I doubt that a anti-roll will totally cure it! So,I think we are back to shocks and springs- maybe not in that order- I don't know how you checked those-but I think that is where the problem lies. I would suggest that you talk to the spring mfg and see what they think. I am of the opinion that replacing springs and shocks will take care of your problem. I have done the same on a bbc camaro and did not have that problem.Just my 2 cents-hope that helped with troubleshooting your car-good luck!

[ericsz]

Here is a picture of how it left before. Straight as can be.

[Chris "drooze" Wertman]

Wow....I dig a hairy ride, but the other pics well, I put a box of diapers and a roll of tp on the dash of the TR7 when it was together, I think I might have actually needed them on that launch. Then again if I can get the chally to launch that hard Ill be in heaven.....

Something changed somewhere. Simple, I dont know enough about chassis setup on a drag car but my dad always said, "Something Changed Somewhere" the trick is to find it, 9 times out of 10 for me its the thing I was sure hadnt. Breakage bent, even on something I just checked and voila......

There is an OLD trick used on bikes (yeah yeah) but frames with low torsional rigidity like the Kaw triples and Suzy trips we used a scribe mounted to a bolt touching a pad (usually a rearset plate) Not as fancy as electronic thingies but it works....maybe one on the rear housing 1 on the chassis ? see where the flex is occuring. Ive seen 2-3 inches of flex on a bike frame of a kaw triple, hence the nickname "Widowmakers" but you were good before, now youre not something changed right ? Grab a coulple nuts and weld on a scribe at a 90 deg angle and bend it so it touches a suface somewhere itll leave a mark behind.....?

Just guessing out loud here.....wow.......that looks like it would be fun to keep straight....

Originally Posted by ericsz

Here is a picture of how it left before. Straight as can be.