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Old 09-07-2010, 04:11 PM   #1
njk53
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Default Re: Brake Pads

Thanks for the info. Our car is 4260 # and I am having trouble in the burn out box. The car seems to be overpowering the front brakes even sitting in a puddle of water. I used a middle of the road Raysbestos metallic pad. The brakes are broken in but I have been struggling with this for a while. The line lock seems to be working ok. It is like there isn't enough pad surface area touching the rotor.
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:23 PM   #2
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Default Re: Brake Pads

my experience has been that Mettalic brakes have to get hot in order to work---when cold they do not have the holding ability like when they get hot--ya might try driving to the line and thru the staging lanes with your foot on the brake pedal to heat em up a bit--also pump the pedal a few times til it gets real hard ya can feel it in your foot then do your burnout---can ya use a line loc if so that's yer answer--comp 387
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:15 PM   #3
Tom Goldman
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Default Re: Brake Pads

Are you sure you have enough pressure at the caliper? ....If you converted from power brakes ,you will need to correct the pedal ratio to get proper pressure.... or possibly too large a master cylinder..........Tom
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:56 PM   #4
njk53
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Default Re: Brake Pads

Tom you make a good point, our car definitely had power steering and brakes from the factory. I have no adjustable proportioning valve on it and manual brakes were on it when my brother and I bought the car. What about ceramic pads? It has a stock Chevelle style master cylinder on it.
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Old 09-08-2010, 06:44 AM   #5
rallye bob
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Default Re: Brake Pads

Get the softest pads you can find. They don't last long, but for a "drag only" application, they are the ticket....
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:30 AM   #6
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Default Re: Brake Pads

I use the bendix organic pad on mine(soft pad)about 28.00 works perfect
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:57 AM   #7
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Default Re: Brake Pads

You shouldn't have problems in the burnout box with a line lock... make sure you whack the throttle quick initially to get the tires spinning. If you ease onto the throttle, you'll have a tough time getting them to break loose!

My Duster bracket car doesn't even have a line lock on it, just a brake proportioning valve. Never had a problem doing a burnout with it.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:39 PM   #8
Jim Wahl
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Wink Re: Brake Pads

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Goldman View Post
Are you sure you have enough pressure at the caliper? ....If you converted from power brakes ,you will need to correct the pedal ratio to get proper pressure.... or possibly too large a master cylinder..........Tom
Tom is correct. This could be your main problem. Jim
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Old 09-10-2010, 04:18 PM   #9
njk53
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Default Re: Brake Pads

Rallye Bob or anyone else, do you know of anyone that manufactures a drag race only disc brake pad that fits the stock caliper? I was looking at the Hawk DR-97 pads but I could not find an application for stock calipers.
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:40 PM   #10
Myron Piatek
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Question Re: Brake Pads

Quote:
Originally Posted by njk53 View Post
Thanks for the info. Our car is 4260 # and I am having trouble in the burn out box. The car seems to be overpowering the front brakes even sitting in a puddle of water. I used a middle of the road Raysbestos metallic pad. The brakes are broken in but I have been struggling with this for a while. The line lock seems to be working ok. It is like there isn't enough pad surface area touching the rotor.
You said that "the car seems to be overpowering the front brakes" but you didn't elaborate on one piece of info. Have you had anyone watch the front tires/wheels to see if they are sliding or rolling when trying to do a burnout?

Cheap, soft pads are the way to go. I've even heard of some racers with "connections" have their automotive brake pads & shoes relined with material normally used for forklift brakes, which are suppose to be even softer.

Last edited by Myron Piatek; 09-10-2010 at 07:43 PM.
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