Brake problems?

[art leong]

I'm using a 7/8 master cylinder now. I've talked to some of the brake manufacturers, and they don't have anything smaller. That is why I'm going to see if I can change to a larger piston caliper. I now run a 54mm (2 1/8") pston. I'm hoping to use a 60mm (2 3/8) With the 22mm (7/8) master cylinder. The master cylinder (power brakes) for that application is 24mm (15/16).
I'm hoping to get the car to hold at a higher rpm against the foot brake.

Regular brake fluid not #5

[chris ok]

any new news yet?
Are you using factory stuff. mopar has some real light aluminum calipers made by trw of mexico it is I believe.
have you driven car around at all. I say you can't just run it without driving it to settle all brake parts and get a real feel. Good luck Art. Chris.

[art leong]

Put a new mastercylinder. Still have the problem. Bench bled the new master. Bled the brakes over and over. Doesn't seem to make a difference. The pedal seems a bit spongy. Checked all the fittings there doesn't seem to be any leaks.
On the jack stands I can ony hold the brakes to 3000 then the wheels start to turn.
I think it would be a little bit more rpms with the wheels on the ground.
Going to try to bleed them one more time. Tomorrow. With someone that I know can pump and hold. If it doesn't get better I'm going to put it on the ground, and try it.
If not I'll just leave at 2500. I doubt there will be any trouble stopping at the finish line.

[art leong]

Put a pressure gauge on them today. With left foot only pedal I got 1100 psi on the front.
600 on the rear. Before I changed the ratio I needed 2 feet pressing as hard as I could to get to those numbers..
Does the difference from front to back seem correct? I have an adjustable proportioning valve.
Hoping that when I put it on the ground I will pick up a few hundred rpms in holding against the converter.