9 on 10

[Ron Gusack]

Thanks for the help. These are bias ply, 2 for 1, Toyo's. I'm trying a 6.50 index class that requires a 9 inch tire and I've never run a tire that small. The wheels came with Hoosier 30 tall bias tires that are feathered pretty badly. I've been told that a good hard burn out would clean off the feather, but that's never been my experience so I'm putting on new Toyos and hoping they work. I plan to screw them and run tubeless. Is that a mistake? I bought these with tubes in them, but I think the previous owner ran tubes because he picked up a pop rivet. Thanks again, you guys are the best.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by Ron Gusack

I plan to screw them Is that a mistake?

yes

[Ron Gusack]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

yes

Why is it a mistake?

[Myron Piatek]

Originally Posted by Ron Gusack

The wheels came with Hoosier 30 tall bias tires that are feathered pretty badly. I've been told that a good hard burn out would clean off the feather, but that's never been my experience so I'm putting on new Toyos and hoping they work.

Swapping "feathered" slicks from side-to-side should help clean off the feathering.
Not sure how much track conditions or perhaps the wrong rubber compound may contribute to feathering. I haven't had a problem and swap sides regularly anyway.

[Ed Wright]

Take Myron's advice and turn your tires around once and a while. I turn my Hoosier radials around every 4 to 6 passes. I have always had better luck with wheels 1/2" to 1" wider than tread area. You can hook harder with more air and more stability. I never use screws. If you use narrower wheels you have to use lower air pressures to get the foot print right, then often need screws to keep them from slipping on the wheels. Since I went to wider wheels several years ago I have not needed screws. When I ran 9" radials 10" wheels were quicker.

[treessavoy]

Just a note, but sometimes it depends upon the upon the wheel as to whether you use a tube, some wheels inherently leak. I had a set of Americans that leaked and I used enough silicone to double the weight of the wheel.

Just a thought.

JimR

[Ron Gusack]

I regularly turn the tires at 10 runs, or very close to it. The feathered Hoosiers that I have came on the wheels that I just purchased.

My question is, will hurt to run screws when they aren't needed? I don't like to see the tire mark 3 inches from the stem. Why is it bad to run screws?

[Alan Roehrich]

We screw our slicks to the rim. We found out with the AA/SA car that the slicks moved on the rim if we didn't.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by Ron Gusack

Why is it bad to run screws?

it's not a question of good or bad, it's just that you don't need them if you're not running tubes so why ruin a nice pair of wheels?

I've run a best of 1.17 60 foot on 32 x 13.5 Hoosier Radial slicks with my current 3130 lb. ride and a best of 1.28 60 foot on 30 x 10.5 Hooiser Radial slicks with my former 3880 lb. ride and the tires have never been screwed to the rim and I make north of 200 passes a season.

I also haven't swapped my tires side to side in over 10 years and my 60 foots are deadly consistent varying thousanths on any given day from pass to pass.

That said, walk the stock/super stock pits at any divisional and national event and you'll see the vast majority of those going rounds, winning races and championships do not have their tires screwed to the rim including the the winningest car in NHRA history.

Have your slicks mounted dry, meaning no soap/mounting lubricant. Yes they will move on the rim for a few passes which doesn't effect consistency nor is it anything to be oncerned about.