Mobil 1 oil

[james schaechter]

I used to run Moblil 1 in everything and was evein running the 0 w 20. I had a problem a couple of times with rocker balls galling so I switched to the gibbs stuff and I have not had a problem with no other changes.

That was a few years ago. I hear that the Mobil one was still very good for street engines, but they kept making it cheaper and I am certain the zddp reduction is part of it.

Anyway, I looked at my total spend on oil each year and decided it was better to stick with something that worked for me even if it is more $$$. That was a few years ago. I am pretty happy with the decision.

Doesn't mean it won't work for you, in my case, it was a problem with stock rockers and the oil pump set up I run.

[BlueOval Ralph]

It was not to make it cheaper, it is a EPA thing too much zinc &
phosphor damages the cat converter. Read the link in the thread that. I posted on the Mobil one sites withe the blends[

QUOTE=james schaechter;269482]I used to run Moblil 1 in everything and was evein running the 0 w 20. I had a problem a couple of times with rocker balls galling so I switched to the gibbs stuff and I have not had a problem with no other changes.

That was a few years ago. I hear that the Mobil one was still very good for street engines, but they kept making it cheaper and I am certain the zddp reduction is part of it.

Anyway, I looked at my total spend on oil each year and decided it was better to stick with something that worked for me even if it is more $$$. That was a few years ago. I am pretty happy with the decision.

Doesn't mean it won't work for you, in my case, it was a problem with stock rockers and the oil pump set up I run.[/QUOTE]

[Myron Piatek]

You have to keep up with the ever-changing formulations and find info that is current. Amsoil has a wide variety of oils with considerable high pressure additives. I use their Dominator 5w-20 with excellent results.

Amsoil options:
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20tappet.pdf

[steven reynolds]

We used Mobil 1 15w50 in our bracket BB Mopar as recommended by original engine builder, (Nick Wilson). After a year & half of racing developed an oil pan gasket leak, dropped pan & found sludgy goo in bottom of pan. I asked around & after many calls to various oil companies & engine builders I put Pennzoil 15w50 platinum in, ran another year & half to rebuild time, pulled engine, disassambled & found no sludgy goo!!! Engine oil was always changed with WIX racing filter after 20 to 25 runs. One oil engineer claimed Mobil 1 wasn't holding contaminants long enough for filter to contain them. I don't really know why, I just know there is no sludgy goo in engine now.
Steve Reynolds

[james schaechter]

Originally Posted by BlueOval Ralph

It was not to make it cheaper, it is a EPA thing too much sonic &
phosphor damages the cat converter. Read the link in the thread that. I posted on the Mobil one sites withe the blends[

QUOTE=james schaechter;269482]I used to run Moblil 1 in everything and was evein running the 0 w 20. I had a problem a couple of times with rocker balls galling so I switched to the gibbs stuff and I have not had a problem with no other changes.

That was a few years ago. I hear that the Mobil one was still very good for street engines, but they kept making it cheaper and I am certain the zddp reduction is part of it.

Anyway, I looked at my total spend on oil each year and decided it was better to stick with something that worked for me even if it is more $$$. That was a few years ago. I am pretty happy with the decision.

Doesn't mean it won't work for you, in my case, it was a problem with stock rockers and the oil pump set up I run.

[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I should have clarified for you Blue Oval. My reference about Mobil 1 being made cheaper was not a response to your link at all. It was a comment made to me from a friend who is an oil engineer and not a racer. I asked him about Mobil one several years ago. ( prior to the zddp thing too) He said that when Mobil 1 started pushing the higher volume sales through chains like Walmart, there was pressure to keep the cost down while maintaining the quality. He told me it was over engineered for it's application, so there was no real down side for street use at the time. I just figured it was finally pushing it for my application. Results will vary. LOL.

[BlueOval Ralph]

The postig on their site with different blends is very interesting when you get to the Porsche and Harley blends with all the addiatives they require,Mobil updates this site every year. They just updated 07-05-11


QUOTE=james schaechter;269530][/QUOTE]

Sorry, I should have clarified for you Blue Oval. My reference about Mobil 1 being made cheaper was not a response to your link at all. It was a comment made to me from a friend who is an oil engineer and not a racer. I asked him about Mobil one several years ago. ( prior to the zddp thing too) He said that when Mobil 1 started pushing the higher volume sales through chains like Walmart, there was pressure to keep the cost down while maintaining the quality. He told me it was over engineered for it's application, so there was no real down side for street use at the time. I just figured it was finally pushing it for my application. Results will vary. LOL.[/QUOTE]

[Jim Parsons]

Jim S. I agree with you completely regarding Mobil’s attempts to mass market by reducing the additive package. I too was also told by one of our lubricating consultants that the additives are where the real cost is and Mobil has experimented to reduce in an attempt to get the price down. This is supported he said by the numerous versions/ formulas they have offered for Mobil-1 over the last 10 years; new improved, special formula, etc. He also stated at one time Corvette, Porsche, Ferrari was considering taking them off the recommended list but they reformulated back up to meet their requirements.
Based on our testing the best buy for racing oil presently is the Brad Penn, old Kendal stuff. It can be a little hard to get and they don’t have a wide offering of viscosities but dollar per ounce of lubrication it’s hard to beat.

If your oil works then don't change , however be aware that the formula my change over time in this highly compatative market so if you start having issues don't rule the oil out.

My 2 cents

[BobUnkefer]

Question....

Why not use the oil of choice (in this case Mobil 1) with an additive that contains the zinc and other materials that the epa has forced the manufacturers to take out.
I know Lucas makes it in a 16 oz bottle, as do others.

Just asking, 'cause I KNOW there are many on here that have researched thoroughly.

Unk

PS, Jim, isn't it time for some BBQ????

[Alan Roehrich]

Originally Posted by BobUnkefer

Question....

Why not use the oil of choice (in this case Mobil 1) with an additive that contains the zinc and other materials that the epa has forced the manufacturers to take out.
I know Lucas makes it in a 16 oz bottle, as do others.

Just asking, 'cause I KNOW there are many on here that have researched thoroughly.

Unk

PS, Jim, isn't it time for some BBQ????

Just because an additive is packaged and labeled does not mean it is compatible with all oils. Differences in base stocks, and various additive packages, especially detergent packages, could prevent your additive from being effective, and or reduce the effectiveness of the additive package in the oil itself. Further, the additive may never even effectively blend with the oil, and thus be completely useless, and have no effect at all.

While I'm not at all convinced we need to be spending $16 for a quart of oil, or that we're getting our money's worth when we do, I'm even less convinced that there are many, if any, lubrication engineers among us, who should be blending our our oil packages.

[BlueOval Ralph]

Maybe so but the reason for the Porsche blend is their engines are direct acting,same as a flat tappet not a roller follower. Bob if you look at the website you will see that Mobil has ols with the correct additive package. As a side note I was in a meeting with 3 Lube Engineers from 1 of the big three Friday and they told me. That current oils are just fine for the older flat tappet engines. BTW there is about 35 page report out there that states the porsfus? ( spelling) will attach DLC coatings and make them flake





QUOTE=Jim Parsons;269573]Jim S. I agree with you completely regarding Mobil’s attempts to mass market by reducing the additive package. I too was also told by one of our lubricating consultants that the additives are where the real cost is and Mobil has experimented to reduce in an attempt to get the price down. This is supported he said by the numerous versions/ formulas they have offered for Mobil-1 over the last 10 years; new improved, special formula, etc. He also stated at one time Corvette, Porsche, Ferrari was considering taking them off the recommended list but they reformulated back up to meet their requirements.
Based on our testing the best buy for racing oil presently is the Brad Penn, old Kendal stuff. It can be a little hard to get and they don’t have a wide offering of viscosities but dollar per ounce of lubrication it’s hard to beat.

If your oil works then don't change , however be aware that the formula my change over time in this highly compatative market so if you start having issues don't rule the oil out.

My 2 cents[/QUOTE]