Testing coils on a coil over plug system?

[Pat Cook]

Art, this is probably a dumb question, but does it still have the lock up disc in the torque converter?

[art leong]

Originally Posted by Pat Cook

Art, this is probably a dumb question, but does it still have the lock up disc in the torque converter?

No lockup in converter. And I changed the converter That was my first suspect.
The car ran fine in the past. So I don't want to get way off base with adjustments.
I've tried to raise/lower fuel pressure, raise/lower fuel injector flow, raise/lower ignition timing. All with no improvements.
Right now I'm chasing the possibility that my LS1 coils could have been installed with reverse polarity. And when I activated the 2 step function in the ECU I might have damaged them. If they are not the problem the only thing I have left is to change the crank and cam pickups.
I've leaked down checked the motor looked at the top end for cam wear etc. Gone through the fuel system. Checked timing to see if the timing belt jumped a tooth (could not have because it would have bent valves) Checked the plug wires, changed all the plugs etc.
I hope I'm barking up the right tree with the coils.
One thing that seems to improve it a little is putting a muffler on the collector. I'm hoping that putting some back pressure on it. Allows a weaker spark to burn more mixture in the chamber and make a bit more power.

[Adger Smith]

Art,
Getting worse with heat and better when cool.... I still think Coil Temp affect has to be something in the electical controls.. Coils or sensors that time the electrical cycles being bad. I Still think the 2 step circuits in your computer are not working correctly. I would talk to the guy that did that and try to get it deactivated...completely. Get it running as a foot brake set up and then go back to the 2 step.

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Art, the LS1 coil pinout is A= ground, B=low reference to PCM, C=coil control PCM, D=Ign power or B+ The low reference on terminal B is the PCM ground for the coil. Hope this helps. BTW you stated that this all seemed to start after using the launch funtion in the ECU, in what manner does your system limit RPM? does it do Ign. only, fuel only or a combination of these?

[art leong]

Originally Posted by Adger Smith

Art,
Getting worse with heat and better when cool.... I still think Coil Temp affect has to be something in the electical controls.. Coils or sensors that time the electrical cycles being bad. I Still think the 2 step circuits in your computer are not working correctly. I would talk to the guy that did that and try to get it deactivated...completely. Get it running as a foot brake set up and then go back to the 2 step.

First I deactivated it in the ecu, then I removed the wiring from it.
I'm trying to get it back to running right without the 2 step. I ran fine before. I had it idling at 1000 rpms, drop it in gear and hold 900 rpms. When that comes back. Then I'll tackle the 2 step.

Originally Posted by buzzinhalfdozen

Art, the LS1 coil pinout is A= ground, B=low reference to PCM, C=coil control PCM, D=Ign power or B+ The low reference on terminal B is the PCM ground for the coil. Hope this helps. BTW you stated that this all seemed to start after using the launch funtion in the ECU, in what manner does your system limit RPM? does it do Ign. only, fuel only or a combination of these?

The launch control function can cut spark, fuel or timing. I was told for the N/A just to use the spark. It worked flawlessly in neutral but went ballistic when against the converter.

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Art, not sure I would spend any time looking at Crank or cam triggers, as they would just make the engine quit no matter what. Did you get your spark checker if so do you have nice blue spark from all coils? I asked before about MAP sensor... what does it read? Do you have any tuning tables that use the MAP input to change fuel or timing perhaps coil on time based on MAP or fuel enrichment based on MAP sensor? Can you "see" in real time what timing and pulse width is being commanded by the ECU?Also can you view your Crank sensor count in real time, sometimes referred to as Wheel dbug counts?

[art leong]

Originally Posted by buzzinhalfdozen

Art, not sure I would spend any time looking at Crank or cam triggers, as they would just make the engine quit no matter what. Did you get your spark checker if so do you have nice blue spark from all coils? I asked before about MAP sensor... what does it read? Do you have any tuning tables that use the MAP input to change fuel or timing perhaps coil on time based on MAP or fuel enrichment based on MAP sensor? Can you "see" in real time what timing and pulse width is being commanded by the ECU?Also can you view your Crank sensor count in real time, sometimes referred to as Wheel dbug counts?

The ecu is programmed to use the map sensor and the tps to change timing and fuel.
The map sensor is in the ecu. It has a calibrate function, and it matches the internal bap sensor. According to the datalogs the map reading changes seem to be right. I can hook up a seperate map sensor. I don't know is I have a wheel debug option.
I just checked the wiring for the coils and it seems to be correct But I did notice that I get 11.8 volts at the pos side of the coil (ignition on) when I get 12.5 at the battery. This is going to require more inspection. This is without the fuel pump on only the ecu and (heated) wideband O2 sensor is energized. I'm wondering why an ecu takes that much voltage when I might try to disconect the O2 sensor and see what happens.

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Art, if you have 12.5 volts at battery and 11.8 volts at coil you are seeing voltage drop in that circuit, what voltage does the coil have when it's running?