Testing coils on a coil over plug system?

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Art, as I stated before, and this is just my opinion from nearly 30 years of driveabilty diagnosis. A crank or cam sensor issue will 99% of the time result in an immediate stall, not slowly quit running. Basically if this engine runs normally in nuetral and you place it in gear you are really only doing 1 thing, increasing the load. The sensor responsible for measuring engine load is the MAP sensor. You said it seems to read normally, what BAR sensor are you using, after quickly scanning some of your systems operating capabilities I saw that you can use MAP or Throttle pos. as your load measurement. From my perspective the engine needs 2 things to happen when it's loaded 1 the fuel needs to increase and 2 the spark instant needs to increase. From what you're saying the engine just seems to slow down to the point of quitting which to me at least indicates it is lacking in proper amount of fuel or spark lead to maintain it's desired idle speed. If I understand correctly you have an indicator lite for Cam sync input? Perhaps on the ECU, if so does this lite quit blinking just prior to stall. Sorry for all the questions but I'm really baffled by this situation and trying to determine what's Not causing it.

[Pat Cook]

Art, is this a speed density or mass air system?

[art leong]

Originally Posted by Pat Cook

Art, is this a speed density or mass air system?

Pat I believe it is Alpha N


I think (HOPE) I found the problem. I took off the cam sensor to check an see if the magnetic was still there and didn't move. When I put it back and tried the test the coils.
I had no spark at all from the coils. through the tester. I noticed the light was off I rechecked the connection and it was tight. I put 12 volts to the sensor and the light remained off. It is normally on when the ignition is on, when the motor spins it flashes.
I just ordered a new one I should have it Wednesday. I hope I still have circulation in my body by then. Because I'm crossing my legs, arms, and fingers that, that is the problem.

[Adger Smith]

Art,
Remember: It is always the last thing you check that fixes a problem.
OK you found one thing...
While you are all wound up with fingers, toes, arms, legs, ect, ect all crossed
It might help to un wind and go ahead and check the other sensors and the coils like you intended to do. :~)

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Art, most of those hall sensors will not tolerate 12 volts... most run on 5 or 8 volts. You may want to read back thru you instruction manual for your system.

[art leong]

Originally Posted by buzzinhalfdozen

Art, most of those hall sensors will not tolerate 12 volts... most run on 5 or 8 volts. You may want to read back thru you instruction manual for your system.

The MSD 2348 sensor is supposed to work on 8 to 18 volts. I was powering it with 8 volts.
I'm going to try it as is to make sure it's the cause of the problem. Then I plan to power it up with 12 volts.
I'm thinking using the bottom of the allowable voltage might not be the best for the sensor.
Am I right?

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Art, the sensor should work correctly using any voltage within it's operating range, in this case more is not realy a good thing. You can test this sensor very easily... take your volt meter hook into the sensor signal wire( the one sending voltage back to the ECU) hook other meter lead to ground. Power up system so sensor has power, next pass a metal object by the sensor, you should see the signal voltage "toggle" switch from 8 volts to 0 volts. I've found it's best to check this at the ECU to verify the signal is getting to the ECU. If you see no voltage switch at the ECU, next try the same test at the sensor connector, if you now see switching then you have a simple wiring issue between the 2 devices. Please try this test and let us know the results. By the way I also noticed that you need to set the "trigger pull up resistors" in your trigger1 and trigger2 sub menus, this is set correctly?Another consideration is the polarity of your crank sensor, being a VR type sensor you really need it wired correctly, I know from experience that they will work even if polarity is reversed however not correctly. To figure out the polarity requires the use of a "scope" unless of course the sensor supplier supplied this info to you.