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#1 | |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Miles From Nowhere
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I WOULD agree with this. Years ago, the first time I tore the left lower trailing arm bracket off a full size Chevy frame, I had to do something to fix it...or park the car. That didn't seem like a good option at the time, so I welded the bracket back on and added a couple of gussets to it. No one ever said anything about or most likely ,even noticed it. Was it technically legal? Probably not. If you are allowed to weld braces and brackets to suspension mounts, then it should be mentioned in the rule book. Just because this deal is out there, doesn't make it legal. Look how long the first gen. weebie jeebie bars were out there before someone in tech figured out they were moving the whole lower pivot to a non OEM location.
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"We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers Last edited by Mark Yacavone; 12-02-2011 at 03:16 PM. |
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#2 |
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As I understand it, the purpose of a rear "anti-roll" bar, is to help resist the tendency for the entire car to twist or "tilt" to the right on launch, and in the lower gears ? Right ?
In extreme cases ( and I think we've all seen those videos of the early 60's Chevy nostalgia match racing cars that almost lay on their right side on launch ), this CAN'T ber safe. Solution ? More weight jacking to the RR spring ? ( "side effect".. no pun intended... car goes back to tilted left at high speed ) WAY stiffer springs ? ( to what end ? ... till the rear suspension doesn't move ? ) Or... install a simple device that manufacturers have used to control body roll, since the late 1930's ? Cars with rear coil springs, will inherently be less resistant to the body rolling to one side... mostly due the fact that the springs are usually located much more inboard than a leaf spring car. Having seen some of these "twisted" launches... I think cars with the problem should be required to control it. As with anything. there's trade-offs. A rear ant-roll bar, without a front anti-roll bar ( most of us don't use a front one ), creates a car with dramatic over-steer characteristics. Add to that, our low pressure rear tires, and you have someing that you better not try and make sudden moves of the steering wheel at high speed ! To me, if it's not changing the suspension geometry in any way, and you're not welding in a bunch of crap... a rear anti-roll bar should be permitted, and specified as such. and no... I don't have one.
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Aubrey N Bruneau 6409 C/S 62 BelAir sport coupe, 409 HP 409 |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Arlington, TN
Posts: 123
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I went to a lot of trouble back in the day to put an anti-roll bar in my car and make it 100% bolt in. Worked like a champ but definitely would have been easier to weld it in.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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If the "weld on" style are legal, I'll be changing mine over. I have some issues with my bolt on system, some welding would correct these problems.
Wade |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Spring Grove, IL
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Here's one that is 100% bolt on and used by several Stockers and even some 9"tire SS. It works!
http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/produ...nd/swaybar.htm Tom |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 648
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Kevin |
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#7 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: West Virginia
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Jeff, what brand of bar did you start with?
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Chris Bowman The Mountain State Mustang 1984 Mustang GT350 |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Arlington, TN
Posts: 123
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Yuba City, CA
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Please keep us posted on what the tech folks say on this subject....
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Shawn Allsup K/S 718 |
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