|
|
![]() |
#1 | |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 34
Liked 138 Times in 51 Posts
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Pilesgrove NJ
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
![]()
Thanks for the replies, I'm making notes. Never know about the firewall flex. That's information that is great to hear about. I can plan some welding to support up that area. I'll get some pictures up shortly.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Auburndale,Florida
Posts: 220
Likes: 29
Liked 71 Times in 38 Posts
|
![]()
With clutch pressures in the 200-300lb range I doubt firewall flex will be a problem.On my own car, once I put an updated clutch in it, the overcenter spring would hold the clutch pedal to the floor.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 583
Likes: 8
Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts
|
![]()
The factory pinch welds are very strong. I doubt you would gain any strength, and otoh you will burn off all the paint and rust resistant coating inside. As others recommended, install a good roll bar or cage for stiffness.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 1,435
Likes: 371
Liked 129 Times in 59 Posts
|
![]()
If memory serves correctly, the front suspension on the early Chevy ll/Nova bolted on to the firewall, so anything you can do to stiffen up the uni-body would be beneficial. There are a number of companies that offer after-market (tubular) front suspension kits for the Chevy ll, with upgraded springs, shocks,steering and BRAKES! That and a well designed roll cage should do wonders for your performance.
Good luck with your project! Lew
__________________
Lew Silverman #2070 "The Wagon Master" N/SA |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Allentown,PA
Posts: 2,476
Likes: 891
Liked 882 Times in 236 Posts
|
![]() Quote:
If the body has been chemical stripped or blasted, tig welding the seams with silicon bronze is a good way to do it ,but not mig welding. The best thing is to make the cage an integral part of the body structure so it does the work ,not the body.
__________________
Tom Goldman 1500 SG , 1506 STK |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Arkansas - In the middle of everything.
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 64
Liked 780 Times in 194 Posts
|
![]()
Tom -
I appreciate your in-depth knowledge and analysis concerning this topic. While your rationale is inviting and attractive, real world experience will prove that welding the seams in a unibody car will make the car more rigid and reduce flex. You can increase strength significantly with a well -designed cage so that the unibody factor is reduced, but under current Stock Eliminator restrictions for cage construction, the stitched up seams will be a benefit. I agree with your comment about tig welding as a preferred method. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 977
Likes: 796
Liked 275 Times in 76 Posts
|
![]()
I do not know if this aplies to the Chevy II. On my fox body, thru the floor subframe connectors made a world of difference.
Sean
__________________
Sean Marconette 84 Mustang 5060 SS/N |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Allentown,PA
Posts: 2,476
Likes: 891
Liked 882 Times in 236 Posts
|
![]()
Dwight, I do weld some seams on the cars I build but I stich weld them .
The key is not overpenetrating the seam and burning thru or undercutting. I agree on a car like a Nova that is inherently weak in some areas it will help to weld a seam here and there on the front end ,especially since many of them are already pulling apart from years of use [and abuse] , but I feel the roll cage for a car like this is still the best solution. I have done several cars with weak front end mountings for Stock Eliminator ,early Mustangs ,Dusters ,AMX's and Novas and have welded plates to the driver compartment side of the firewall at the point of attachment for the front end and run a tube to the forward leg of the cage to tie it in. This is legal for Stock and has been accepted on all the cars it was done on.
__________________
Tom Goldman 1500 SG , 1506 STK |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times in 7 Posts
|
![]()
A problem with continuious weld is that the metal will shrink when cooling and thus be under tension untill it is relieved. Sheet metal does not like or perform well under extensive tension, and it has no strength under compression (it just bends). Without structure (frame work) it will crack at the weld edge and fail. Sheet metal is designed to go along for the ride, just as fiberglass panels do. Unibody construction is for light weight and not severe duty. If your not running in Stock eliminator I would run cage components thru the firewall and attach suspension points and foward frame point to the main cage. It should'nt be long before NHRA and IHRA allow (thru the firewall cage structure) in Stock eliminator anyway. You can design/fabricate the cage in preperation for thru the fire wall addition at a later date. If you just want to add a little insurance to a spot weld seam. I would tack weld a small spot (on the edge of the overlap panel in between each factory spot weld) to provide a zig-zag appearance without stressing the entire panel. I would not use the silicon-bronze filler rod for this, S-B rod is for light duty applications only.
Wade Mahaffey |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|