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#1 |
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Dan, the only thing that is going to fix the roll over with the front sway bar removed is an anti roll bar. When I ran an air bag in my old car, it always twisted on turns. Only after I put the Weibe stuff in, is when that stopped . The drag race anti roll bars do a great job of keeping the suspension level on the launch.
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#2 |
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Ontario Canada
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Sent you a PM
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Tony Valerio 1968 Camaro 1700 IHRA H/CM 1701 NHRA SS/?A |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: East China, MI
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What motor are you going to run in your wagon? What class?
My brother and I run a 71 wagon and use the stock GM dual reservoir master cylinder. We run the stock disc brake system and stock proportioning valve. The car seems to stop fine. The only issue I have had with this set up is if I don't put enough heat in the brake pads before a burnout, the line lock won't hold the car.
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Nelson Kowal Stock 345 |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Glendora,Calif.
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My 68 Chevelle wagon has the OEM drum brake unit. It has the stock drums all the way around, and it holds on the line pretty well. As to the way the car drives,it goes down the track very well, but without sway bars, it does get the body roll on turns.Rear suspension is OEM with Lakewood no hop bars. Edelbrock adjustable upper rear arms and boxed lowers will be added in the future. A good rear bar wouldn't hurt things,either.
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#5 |
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Location: Somerset,Ky
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Dan,
If booster mounted with 4 studs you'll probaly want to move master to top holes,my 79 malibu was that way originally I installed with master in center of the four holes brakes worked OK but not great found out later that manual brake setup had master mounted on the top set of holes,increased ratio made huge difference in braking power. MAKE sure you have pushrod retained so it can't come out,some masters have just a countersunk area for the rod to set in I usaully drill that a little deeper so there is absoulutely no way for the rod to come out and fab something so pedal can't pull rod out of master anyway. I don't want to read in your N/D stories about the your manual brake conversion gone bad and crashing the family wagon.LOL I like reading your stories,good luck with your project. Most of time if rear is @ stock height or lower w/factory sway bar,body roll should'nt be bad. Mike Taylor 3601 |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Churchville, NY
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The wagon is going to be a K, L, M car with a 255. The whole premise here is that Thomas wants to race every weekend, whether its for $5 or 5 million, and a stocker seems to be more suited for that as opposed to a SS car. We both love the wagon, and after watching Jody make everyone look silly, well......
After everyone's input, both here, pm's and emails, it looks like the budget is going up and the air bags are going back to inventory. Although it looks bitchin', I don't think a 12 flat car is going to need the Alf W set up, and the BMR anti-roll looks pretty nice, so I'm planning to go that direction. Thanks Greg B. The master assembly bolted onto 4 studs as you said Mike. If Alex's deal is a bolt on unit, that sounds like me! And I'll be sure to make a positive return stop for the pedal. I really don't like Thomas all that much most of the time, but I don't want the car wrecked, lol... The car already has approved aftermarket lower trailing arms. I don't think I need to replace the upper assembly with anything trick, thoughts? And as for body mount bushings, they look like a lot of fun to replace. All I've been able to find are poly mounts. Does anyone know of a solid mount, or do we have to make them ourselves? Thanks again everyone! Last edited by Dan Fletcher; 01-24-2012 at 10:45 AM. |
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#7 | |
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