Recommended Engine Oil ?

[rx dealer]

Originally Posted by HP HUNTER

"Saying your Big Block car is faster than a car with a 6 cyl. is typical bracket racer chump talk" Im going to have to agree with you here. LOL awww. Personally I like to compare Eds 2900 pound 522 inch aftermarket headed, compressioned up car to Grossi's 454 flattop pistoned, 2.06 valved peanut port, Q-jet equiped SS/GTA sunfire, of course I dont think Franks ever had the opurtunity to run out there at Disneyland, like Ed runs at NEGATIVE 2000b feet air, with a 30.50 baro, but somehow Franks 8.70s look pretty good to me right now., what part of the truth dont you like Ed??????????.

Great post...X 1000..Luke SS 311 Super Stock GT/E

Good job Joe B

[CFMCNC]

Oil pressure is the net resistance to flow.the more internal hemorage,the lower oil pressure,the pump rpm is related to idle pressure and the relief valve sets the peak pressure,Volume is the key to addequate lubrication,Nascar Cup at 9500rpms and NHRA Pro-Stocks approaching 11,000 rpm ,both dont see over 50 # oil pressure,high oil pressure is power lost.Blown Alcohol and Nitro engines run 50-70w oil to combat fuel dilution.Bill C.

[Pvt Parts]

Originally Posted by CFMCNC

Oil pressure is the net resistance to flow.the more internal hemorage,the lower oil pressure,the pump rpm is related to idle pressure and the relief valve sets the peak pressure,Volume is the key to addequate lubrication,Nascar Cup at 9500rpms and NHRA Pro-Stocks approaching 11,000 rpm ,both dont see over 50 # oil pressure,high oil pressure is power lost.Blown Alcohol and Nitro engines run 50-70w oil to combat fuel dilution.Bill C.

X2 I remember when we changed to a newly developed low drag pump for our dry sump. It was 4 to 5 HP.

[Aubrey N Bruneau]

Because of the astronimical cost of even aquiring a passenger car 409 block and corresponding large port heads, yet alone the cost of preparing it the best I can for the class ( I'm not really in the income bracket to be playing this game ! ).... I keep re=assembling it with the good 'ol reliable Melling M55HV. The terror of spinning a bearing seems to always keep me on that side !
With the 30 W that I've been using, fully hot oil, I go through the traps at no more than 75 PSI. As mentioned, idle will be around 20-25. At 3000 RPM, it will be at 70.
So, I'm thinkig that while my "high side" may be 15-20 pounds excessive, the drastic change that I see in oil pressure when cooler, is more of a viscosity issue. I was going to go to that real light stuff, but I think that my loose bearing clearances may not get enough "padding", and would simply get washed out because of too much "hemorage" !

err on the side of caution
I've blown this thing up twice now. Once in 2005 because of a broken ARP rod bolt, and a second time in 2009 because of a failed Comp Cams tool-steel spring retainer.
Can't afford to fix it again !

Thanks guys
Remember, I'm there to add to the car count, and take my position at th ebottom of the ladder !

[Pvt Parts]

Originally Posted by Aubrey N Bruneau

Because of the astronimical cost of even aquiring a passenger car 409 block and corresponding large port heads, yet alone the cost of preparing it the best I can for the class ( I'm not really in the income bracket to be playing this game ! ).... I keep re=assembling it with the good 'ol reliable Melling M55HV. The terror of spinning a bearing seems to always keep me on that side !
With the 30 W that I've been using, fully hot oil, I go through the traps at no more than 75 PSI. As mentioned, idle will be around 20-25. At 3000 RPM, it will be at 70.
So, I'm thinkig that while my "high side" may be 15-20 pounds excessive, the drastic change that I see in oil pressure when cooler, is more of a viscosity issue. I was going to go to that real light stuff, but I think that my loose bearing clearances may not get enough "padding", and would simply get washed out because of too much "hemorage" !

err on the side of caution
I've blown this thing up twice now. Once in 2005 because of a broken ARP rod bolt, and a second time in 2009 because of a failed Comp Cams tool-steel spring retainer.
Can't afford to fix it again !

Thanks guys
Remember, I'm there to add to the car count, and take my position at th ebottom of the ladder !

Hey if you can dial it and drive you have just as good a shot at winning as the next guy. Keep up the good work. I always wanted a '64 with a 409/425 4 speed. Your car is a keeper.

[Pvt Parts]

Ok, here's the low down on oil. If you are a Stock, Super Stock or Comp racer you're goal is to make the most HP without causing damage. Finding that spot with your combination is like finding the perfect clutch set up in a stick car or the perfect converter on an automatic car.

Is there HP is one oil over another???? Yes but just changing oil is not where the real gains are at. What you are looking for is the thinnest oil that will provide the lubrication and cooling properties you need. The real gains are in being able to run the lowest oil pressure with the minimal amount of oil in the pan reducing HP drag on the pump and windage in the pan.

In Ed's defense I will say that Mobil 1 (Extremely low viscosity) with a certain additive (I can't tell you the name) was the best at all of the above that I found. My SS/A Corvette went through the lights with the oil pressure gauge dancing between 40 and 60 lbs. You had to clutch it and shut it off immediately or the oil pressure would go to zero when you hit the brakes.

When I sent my Comp engines back to Houston to be freshened (every 30 to 40 passes) the guys in the shop would drain the oil and say "What the hell is that?" The oil drained out of the pan like water.

BTW, I've never had any lubrication issues with bearings, valve train or cyl walls. Many of the people on this forum could find additional gains of .02 to .03 or more by working this method. It's definitely worth it if you are looking for every .01. Take it slow and check the bottom end.

[CFMCNC]

Originally Posted by Pvt Parts

Ok, here's the low down on oil. If you are a Stock, Super Stock or Comp racer you're goal is to make the most HP without causing damage. Finding that spot with your combination is like finding the perfect clutch set up in a stick car or the perfect converter on an automatic car.

Is there HP is one oil over another???? Yes but just changing oil is not where the real gains are at. What you are looking for is the thinnest oil that will provide the lubrication and cooling properties you need. The real gains are in being able to run the lowest oil pressure with the minimal amount of oil in the pan reducing HP drag on the pump and windage in the pan.

In Ed's defense I will say that Mobil 1 (Extremely low viscosity) with a certain additive (I can't tell you the name) was the best at all of the above that I found. My SS/A Corvette went through the lights with the oil pressure gauge dancing between 40 and 60 lbs. You had to clutch it and shut it off immediately or the oil pressure would go to zero when you hit the brakes.

When I sent my Comp engines back to Houston to be freshened (every 30 to 40 passes) the guys in the shop would drain the oil and say "What the hell is that?" The oil drained out of the pan like water.

BTW, I've never had any lubrication issues with bearings, valve train or cyl walls. Many of the people on this forum could find additional gains of .02 to .03 or more by working this method. It's definitely worth it if you are looking for every .01. Take it slow and check the bottom end.

Exactly what Scott said X2.Bill C.