1970 nova motor choices

[Alan Roehrich]

If you're on a budget, a 255/350 or a 300/350. I'd lean toward the 300/350, but you may find a solid 255/350 for sale.

If you start from scratch, you cannot hope to build a competitive engine for what you can buy one for used from a good running car. There are too many parts to sort through where you may need to buy multiple cores before you get a really good core. You'll also spend a ton on the "learning curve", buying valves, having valve jobs done and redone, buying camshafts, etc.

Buying an engine a piece at a time and getting someone to put it together probably won't happen, and you likely won't find anyone to do it, never mind save any money. When you buy a race engine for a class car, or pay to have one built, you are not just buying parts and paying for labor. You're paying the builder for his knowledge and experience. Knowledge in class racing comes from expensive and labor intensive R&D.

You also need to decide on an automatic or a stick.

[tj310]

Buying an engine by piece is more expensive than buying a complete used motor. I'd work on the chassis, clutch and suspension first and worry about the legal ,trick and or best later. Nothing wrong with a 402 ,
---Trevor

[Grant Eldridge]

We raced a '70 Nova and started with a very budget 396/350hp combo. In the first engine were well used street TRW heavy forged pistons, nothing trick or high dollar just careful assembly, torque plate hone, attention to detail and tuning. In E/SA at 3570 lbs it ran 11.39. The index now is 11.70, so still 3 tenths under with junk. We claimed the car as 1969 and used the parts for that combo. Next year we "stepped up" and bought CP pistons, "stroked" .012" crank H beam rods etc. Eventually, after lots of converters, cams, headers, trick carb and suspension changes our best passes were 10.73 and 121.32mph with a 1.41 60 foot. That car is a pretty good combination, in my opinion, and you could start out as I did with cheap stuff to get the basic combination out to the track. There was another thread the other day "396/325 hp" on here with several sets of heads offered for sale to start with-they are the same casting numbers that are legal. The manifold is an orphan for 1969, you need that specific year I believe, but these parts are not too hard to find or expensive. Bullet could supply a cam, tool steel lifters are $$ but probably safer than the Schubeck/smith ones IMHO. I'd focus on high quality machine work, reduced drag in the short block through careful ring package selection, maybe assemble it yourself if you have done engine work before.
Someone posted earlier, correctly, that it is way cheaper to buy a good engine used than you could possibly build even doing it yourself. I've seen stocker engines on here for $5000., I'm guessing a "name" engine new would be $15,000.-$20,000. carb to oil pan for Chev, more for anything else. It's a great challenge, but to go fast be prepared to spend lots of money, time and effort trying things.
Grant Eldridge
E/SA 6650
National Record Holder 2011

[Mark Yacavone]

Question:
Why do most of you guys want this guy to end up in F, G, H /SA ?

He's a beginner on a budget. He'll get his a** handed to him regularly in heads up runs in those classes.
Big block scenario is even worse.

[Todd Bailey]

Don't worry too much about the year. I'm having a '70 Nova built (South of Dallas, if interested) and will be claiming it as a '69 to run the 255/350 in G/SA. Luckily, I found a complete Woodrow Josey motor for less then five grand to get me started. Listen to the guys on this site because their experience is invaluable. I have a file from Classracer with inputs concerning most everything in building a car as to what works, what doesn't and what to buy and not buy. If the creek don't rise, I will be out there next year.

[Joe DeMarzo]

Todd is doing right (you must have a couple of good mentors) and everyone has given you great advise. Stay away from the BB if you are on a budget and just starting out. If you insist on a BB go 1970 402 combo. Buddy up with a local stock racer and be a sponge. It will speed up your learning curve.

The 350/255 ( 69) is easiest to make run fast, the 350/300 (70) is a good combo but you have to get a good engine builder to make it really fast. The 350/200 (72) is a great combo, hence Mr. Gray's motor (his Nova is a bad motor scooter). You will have HP and just have to work on the other stuff, converter, suspension, trans, carb, etc

Spend your money wisely, buy great parts and don't think short term. You will spend 3x the amount if you cut corners.

Good luck and I would be happy to share my BB & SB experiences if you would like privately.

[Alan Roehrich]

The one big block that would be good would be an iron head 396/375 4 speed, at 385HP, and being a 4 speed, it is a good combination.

They did drop the HP on the 350/300, it is now only 2 higher than the 350/255.

[Joe DeMarzo]

Alan, good grab on the 396/375.. i think the 255 is rated 280 and the 300 is 286? Hell of a learning curve with a stick shift, lol

[Grant Eldridge]

Originally Posted by Joe DeMarzo

Todd is doing right (you must have a couple of good mentors) and everyone has given you great advise. Stay away from the BB if you are on a budget and just starting out. If you insist on a BB go 1970 402 combo. Buddy up with a local stock racer and be a sponge. It will speed up your learning curve.

The 350/255 ( 69) is easiest to make run fast, the 350/300 (70) is a good combo but you have to get a good engine builder to make it really fast. The 350/200 (72) is a great combo, hence Mr. Gray's motor (his Nova is a bad motor scooter). You will have HP and just have to work on the other stuff, converter, suspension, trans, carb, etc

Spend your money wisely, buy great parts and don't think short term. You will spend 3x the amount if you cut corners.

Good luck and I would be happy to share my BB & SB experiences if you would like privately.

Joe, what was the reason you preferred the '70 402 over the '69 396? We had also looked at that but were concerned about the "flat" 1970 intake manifold, decided to give up the six cubic inches. Maybe that manifold is better than we believed?
Grant