Stick car, too much clutch?

From what I just read, if you remove the counter and don't add a few turns of base you will drive through the clutch in high gear.

One affects the other. You can mostlikely, take some more base adjustment out and it will soften the clutch durring the shifts. The CW no CW debate is very split. When you run counter, the base adjustment should be run on the soft side. When running enough counter, you will have a hard time driving through the clutch. When set up like this, you should lower the starting line RPM to soften the launch. Leaving where you shift at will produce the " Sledge Hammer Effect " because of the counter producing more clamp pressure on the disc. In the end you have to figure out what clutch management theory you subscribe to and go out and test.
Be sure you take a lot of notes durring testing. When you get some data from your results , you will be able to tailor your clutch to your needs and desires. That is the fun of this game.

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

Well, it is pretty consistent, and in 12 years, the only real breakage has been knocking a few teeth off 3rd gear a few years ago. I need to pull the trans to fix an oil leak, so I guess I will remove the counterweight at that time. I never really used any counterweight before this clutch freshen up. My tach is a playback model, but it has no provisions for driveshaft RPM. I`d really be suprised if I have "way too much" clutch static though, as when I do encounter flare up on the 3-4, or noticable slippage in 4th, I can normally cure the slippage with 1/2 turn increase of static. And as I mentioned in the first post, rolling on the throttle on the return road at 2500-3000RPM will result in noticable slipping. I do normally shift it clutchless. One other thing I should add, don`t know if its really relevent or not, but Hyatt did the last clutch rebuild, and instead of the normal .280" disc McLeod supplies, Tim uses a .380" thick disc, and I have the pressure plate shimmed up .100" to compensate for the added thickness. And lastly Kris, since you also run a FE, have you had any issues with the pilot bearing "falling out" of the crankshaft? I use the ball bearing pilot, and it kinda sticks out of the crank a ways, and is not a very tight press fit, and has been found just sitting on the input shaft a couple of times . I last installed the pilot bearing with red Loctite, I`ll take a look when I pull the trans out in the near future.

[joespanova]

Put just enough base in it to launch the car , and throw in a little c'weight. Thats alI do.........I dont play around with c'weight , dont mess with base much either. Watching a playback tach can sometimes tell you if you need more weight as the needle will bounce around. With my Nash 5 speed , 23 degree 355 , at 3000 lbs Ive run 9.60s at 138 n change.........must not be that far off........but the bottom line is this , without a data logger and historical logs you're going to work yourself to death playing with that clutch.

I also want to add , my advice is for clutch assisted stuff.........and breakage? Rarely

[Troy Henderson]

Spend your money on a data logger you can tie into the input and life will be much easier. We used to tune our cars by feel and using a video camera but that's just frustrating with all the affordable technology out there now.

Soft Loks are great but if you're looking to upgrade and don't wan't to spend the coin on the Advanced stuff hit up the Comp Eliminator guys for some of their used stuff.

Shocks are critical on our small tire cars on leaf springs and may help you also depending on what you have but a ladder bar car isn't as violent.