Impossible to achieve high 1.20s sixties

[joespanova]

Eighth times are 6.02 and 6.04 @113 on those passes.

You might be able to take a little first gear and slip the clutch some. It looks like you have plenty of engine to do what you want.
If you think you are exactly where you need to be to get to your goal maybe try leaving on the valve spring, that might get you there once. I tried it at Etown, not on purpose though. It made alot of noise and tighend up the clutch more then I wanted it, but it sounded cool. If that dont work leave in a different spot. Good luck

[Mark Yacavone]

I don't want to get too deep into this stick shift discussion, but I will say .
Going to a 3.05 low from say, a 2.96, doesn't necessarily give you a quicker 60' ...(or MPH)

[Jeff Lee]

On the first video I notice your a) Seems like your dragging too much water after the burnout. b) having a hard time keeping it running and c) you seem content in keeping at or near idle and then going to WOT at the very last instance. Your not allowing the levers to work as they should. RPM needs to be elevated after you set the stage light and then hit WOT before launching. It's a race car, quit with the idle stuff!

On the second video, your doing the burnout too far past the water box. Slicks should be just outside of the edge of the water box. Dumping the clutch where it is so much dryer is hard on the clutch; creates to much heat.

Then same as first paragraph.

My point is that if an engine makes some tq, you can use it. If you have to shift 1st gear in 30 ft there isn't much you can adjust, because it happens way to fast. The clutch mostlikely doesn't matter in something like that.
I should have stayed out of this to be honest. There is as much point me commenting, as what he is trying to do with that car. I have enough problems with my own program, without trying to solve another.
Keep pulling gears and try to keep it out of the ditch.

[Rory McNeil]

It seems you have quite a bit more power than my 3100 lb Ford FE powered Fairmont, but its not working as well. My Fairmont weighs 3100 with me in it, and also has ladder bars, albeit with Art Morrisons budget coil springs setup, which uses normal Gabrial Strider 3 position shocks. My car normally runs low 10s at 132mph (best of 9.972), but it has gone a few 1.29 60 foots, normally in the low 1.3s. My best 1/8th mile numbers are a 6.291@ 107.65 Since my Ford 427/428s are not high revvers, I only use 4.56-4.88 gears, but I do have a 3.19 low gear in the Jerico. I also have a McLeod Soft Lok clutch. So it seems like you are certainly leaving some on the table, either in the clutch, chassis, or driving. Your car is not much ighter, and you go much quicker and faster, so I agree, your 60 ft times should be better too.What kind of RPM are you leaving at? I normally dump the clutch at around 6000-6200 RPM, and shift at the same.

[Jeff Lee]

I'm with Todd, there's typically not much gained in these discussions. I just wanted to point out the possibility of gaining something by adjusting the driving method. The clutch & shock adjustments should follow next.
I'm betting there is more reductions in 60' times without having to go through the expense of a 4-link.
And 330' times are more relevant with a stick car.

[Brad Zaskowski]

After watching the two videos I am sure your biggest gain in 60' would be to get the car to stop rolling after you are staged, the car probably rolled a good 6" after your were staged before the actual launch. I see that as a major consistency issue the way the car never stops rolling after you are staged. The shallower you stage the quicker your 60' time will be to and your reaction time will be slower also. Just ask the great Chuck Downing about how much staging slow and shallow has changed his reaction times this year.
Try a little more air gap and staging with some brake pressure using the line lock.

[joespanova]

I like the feedback and how some of you dont pull any punches ( LOL ).
Well , the "creeping" of the car thru air gap or ? is an anomaly......that in itself is unusual and about to be corrected.
If the car sits in the water during the burn out it just doesn't work as well........hasn't in the past anyway , and thats why that "tradition" has carried over to this day........perhaps I can re- think that.
As I have stated previously , as I have had this car for a long time,MOST of the suggestions have been tried in the past...... HOWEVER , the results are the same. I will be freshening the clutch ........at that point I will have a new disc and fresh heat shield. If taking out base and adding c'weight is the answer ..so be it. The suggestion to use a taller first gear ( or is it lower, LOL ) is a consideration ( a 2.xx )........
I am still listening.............and thanks for the suggestions.

BTW , that video was added to answer Bigleys question.....not to be evaluated in the presumption that thats typical of the cars behavior.

[Stephen & Horace Johnson]

clutch, rpm, susp, tire.... Our 3300lbs sled cuts high 1.20s on a good track and low 1.30s on a greasy track...we took the car to one of the worst tracks in the country and cut a 1.27 by tuning,tuning, tuning...

I agree with Brad, first off stop the thing from rolling...