BBC Oil Pump Recommendations

[Larry Hill]

Take it across the "River" and let Jeff Taylor look at it and check it out, you will be head in the long run.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

I'd say good chance your crank is cracked and flexing,you said had about 15 runs on bearings,what was the old bearings like or was it first build?

Your on the right track checking crank and line bore
Mike Taylor 3601

[Tgreen3724]

we took the whole thing apart this past winter and replaced the bearings. The bearings we took out looked flawless.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

You may of cracked crank since you put back. Did you check bearing clearance when you put new bearings in? You need to check all 8 rods and all 5 mains when checking clearance if you did'nt,alot of people will just check a couple,that leaves too much room for error.
The main reason I can think of for front of thrust to wear like you said,is if crank is cracked it's flexing enough to rub thrust,or when bearings went crank bent and has enough run out that is scrubbing thrust.
99% of time when you have bearing go out rod or main the crank will draw from heat and warp mains, you will have run out on mains, if not cracked,crank can be heated to around 575 degrees and straightened in crank straightening press,needs to be within about .003 before regrinding.
What about oil pump mounting bolt ? Does main have pump bolt hole all the way through cap or is blind hole? Either way if bolt is too long can crush rear main bearing and tighten on crank.
Also if have main studs w/6 pt. nuts it can hit oil pump and hold off main cap and create a leak or press leak,ARP's come w/ 12 pt nut that goes on rear main to clear oil pump.
Also if nothing else found would it been possible could had sealer holding cap off block @ rear and cocked rear main cap.
Or had wrong flywheel bolts(too long,Std shift w/flexplate) installed and pushed rear cap forward'
Mike Taylor 3601