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#1 |
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Location: West Chester, PA
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Having the right side squat and the other rise is commonly seen on Chevelles with a factory four link. This is because the instant center is too low.
In your case, raising the front mount of the ladder bar will bring the instant center up and back. After doing this, you may find that shock adjustments are a lot more effective.
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Tony Curcio 1860 STK |
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#2 |
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Can't thank you guys enough for the input! To answer a previous question, yes we have had the car scaled numerous times but it does not seem to do much other than get the car to leave straight. It's kind of difficult to get equal weights on both tires and the ride heights to be similar side to side. It doesn't help with this squat problem nor improve the weight transfer issue but it looks like everyone agrees that I need to raise the ladder bar to move the IC.
Might be SS/LA soon!! This car is worse than a woman! ![]() |
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#3 |
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I believe it's been mentioned before but if you've got room (and rules permit), an anti-roll bar would make a nice addition.
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Phil Hudlow 6678 (S/C, S/G, ET-PRO) |
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#4 | |
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And all the principal of suspension tune would apply with a more feminine transmission. Have you ever looked under Kips Mustang? Very interesting ladder bar arrangement.
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX |
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#5 |
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*Like* ^^^^
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Phil Hudlow 6678 (S/C, S/G, ET-PRO) |
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#6 |
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You definitely need an Anti Roll bar. This will eliminate the twist and keep one side from doing something different than the other.
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#7 | |
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Also, IMO 150# springs are way too heavy. Much like a six cylinder type spring on the front stores energy and helps the front suspension to separate and transfer weight, a light spring on the rear wound up a few inches also stores energy and helps get the rear out and applied at the hit. I prefer to use a light spring to accomplish that and use the shock to control the speed. 110s may be a bit too light once you raise the front of the bars, which I agree should be tried. Tightening the compression should help keep the rear out and applied and reduce the basketball effect of the tires. A rough racetrack may limit how tight you can run that knob. Also, I'm not sure a stiff sidewall tire is what you want. The stiffer sidewalls tend to want to bounce the rear back up into the car more so than other style tires. |
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#8 |
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as an old retired Superstock racer that ran a 283 I was wondering how you were setting your pre-load on your car. I set mine by having the car as level as possible and then adding enough weight in the front seat to equate to my own weight, then set the pre-load. I went through a few adjustments when I first got the car but after I got it set I didn't have to touch it, and the cars 60' was in the very low 1.40's.
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