Engine break in and seating the rings????

Reed Granrt · 08-22-2013, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ss wannabee

Carl, think you're saying a good cross-hatch pattern is still recommended...

Doesn't the last photo come close?

Nope--look at the top of the cylinder where the top rings rides--blow by. Yep there is a cross hatch and it dont look bad but cylinder is out of round. Just my pinion. Got two 400 here now, both supposedly plate hones. Put plates, on made 3 passes and I can see every bolt just like that one. Put doal bore gage in and immediately called the customers. A tu--d is a tu---d no matter how much you polish it(or Hone)
reed

Gary Wiegand · 08-22-2013, 10:45 AM

I've had excellent results with a number of engines using Brad Penn 30 wt. break-in oil. Engine has Speed Pro low tension moly rings. New or freshened up engine has the 30 wt. oil in it along with a K&N filter when I pick it up. Engine is run while setting timing, valves etc. Leave oil in for the first time at the track. I make at least one easier pass, then race it that day with the break-in oil in the engine. When home I change oil and filter. I use 10W30 Brad Penn oil since my engine is clearanced properly for 10W30, and WIX racing filters. I usually change oil and filter after about 20 passes. The oil still looks good when change it. It could probably be left in but I don't. Engine is sealed up so nice I don't need to add oil between race weekends.

Mike Delahanty · 08-24-2013, 09:03 AM

I have become a real believer in the Gibbs BR break in oil. I would not start a new engine without it. Power levels and ring seal stabilize within 2-4 pulls on the Dyno. Engine disassembly after Dyno break-in looks like the engine has never been run. I also like the Gibbs engine assembly lubricants and see them in many of the high end engine builders assembly rooms that I visit.

Reed Granrt · 08-24-2013, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Delahanty

I have become a real believer in the Gibbs BR break in oil. I would not start a new engine without it. Power levels and ring seal stabilize within 2-4 pulls on the Dyno. Engine disassembly after Dyno break-in looks like the engine has never been run. I also like the Gibbs engine assembly lubricants and see them in many of the high end engine builders assembly rooms that I visit.

Now, how the crap can we believe what you say---ya work for Ford, a drag racer duing roundy round, and driving a MoPar. Being that scrwed up, I wouldnt let u in my shop. HeHeHe Oh bye the way, I totally use and believe In Joe Gibbs oil and assembly. The assembly lube does not blind a filter and I have found several assm. lube that will blind certain filters. Best I have found on the dyno.
Reed

Jeff Lee · 08-24-2013, 02:02 PM

The best thing you can do after getting the proper hone (an art in itself) is to apply the Total Seal paste that you burnish to the cylinder walls. I can't find it on their website but it was developed by my engine builder, Bud Yancer of MACH Development. It is sold and marketed (?) by total seal. After that, Gibbs break-in oil. With anything coming out of that shop, leak down after dyno break in should be around 1%. And that's using gapped rings.

340Cuda · 08-24-2013, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

The best thing you can do after getting the proper hone (an art in itself) is to apply the Total Seal paste that you burnish to the cylinder walls. I can't find it on their website but it was developed by my engine builder, Bud Yancer of MACH Development. It is sold and marketed (?) by total seal. After that, Gibbs break-in oil. With anything coming out of that shop, leak down after dyno break in should be around 1%. And that's using gapped rings.

Summit has it...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-qs

hemiman4262003 · 09-08-2013, 11:41 AM

I was told years ago,engines broke in fast run fast,we rebuild diesels engines at work,we fire them up.idle a few min,then take them on road test

Ed Wright · 09-08-2013, 01:38 PM

One of the biggest things I have found is don't let it sit and idle before running it hard.

Supershifter1955 · 08-26-2013, 10:17 PM

Great conversation all!

carl hinkson · 08-27-2013, 06:10 AM

On OEM block its best to hone using the same gasket and Hardware to used in the end build, I have seen where using a stock replacement gasket 7733PT-2 and going to a 1003 Felpro gasket will change the bore dimension at the top of the cylinder.

OEM blocks are pretty frail compared to a Bowtie or Dart block

08-22-2013, 10:45 AM	#2
Gary Wiegand Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 8 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? I've had excellent results with a number of engines using Brad Penn 30 wt. break-in oil. Engine has Speed Pro low tension moly rings. New or freshened up engine has the 30 wt. oil in it along with a K&N filter when I pick it up. Engine is run while setting timing, valves etc. Leave oil in for the first time at the track. I make at least one easier pass, then race it that day with the break-in oil in the engine. When home I change oil and filter. I use 10W30 Brad Penn oil since my engine is clearanced properly for 10W30, and WIX racing filters. I usually change oil and filter after about 20 passes. The oil still looks good when change it. It could probably be left in but I don't. Engine is sealed up so nice I don't need to add oil between race weekends.

08-24-2013, 09:03 AM	#3
Mike Delahanty VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,201 Likes: 0 Liked 276 Times in 54 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? I have become a real believer in the Gibbs BR break in oil. I would not start a new engine without it. Power levels and ring seal stabilize within 2-4 pulls on the Dyno. Engine disassembly after Dyno break-in looks like the engine has never been run. I also like the Gibbs engine assembly lubricants and see them in many of the high end engine builders assembly rooms that I visit. __________________ Been racing Stock and S/S cars since 1973.

08-24-2013, 02:02 PM	#5
Jeff Lee VIP Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Anthem, Arizona Posts: 2,766 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? The best thing you can do after getting the proper hone (an art in itself) is to apply the Total Seal paste that you burnish to the cylinder walls. I can't find it on their website but it was developed by my engine builder, Bud Yancer of MACH Development. It is sold and marketed (?) by total seal. After that, Gibbs break-in oil. With anything coming out of that shop, leak down after dyno break in should be around 1%. And that's using gapped rings. __________________ Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX

09-08-2013, 11:41 AM	#7
hemiman4262003 Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: st.louis Posts: 64 Likes: 1 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? I was told years ago,engines broke in fast run fast,we rebuild diesels engines at work,we fire them up.idle a few min,then take them on road test

09-08-2013, 01:38 PM	#8
Ed Wright Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sand Springs, OK Posts: 8,132 Likes: 896 Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? One of the biggest things I have found is don't let it sit and idle before running it hard. __________________ Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA

08-26-2013, 10:17 PM	#9
Supershifter1955 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 8 Likes: 2 Liked 22 Times in 1 Post	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? Great conversation all!

08-27-2013, 06:10 AM	#10
carl hinkson Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NORTHEAST Posts: 287 Likes: 1 Liked 18 Times in 10 Posts	Re: Engine break in and seating the rings???? On OEM block its best to hone using the same gasket and Hardware to used in the end build, I have seen where using a stock replacement gasket 7733PT-2 and going to a 1003 Felpro gasket will change the bore dimension at the top of the cylinder. OEM blocks are pretty frail compared to a Bowtie or Dart block

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