Questions for the stick guys

[J&S Racing]

Have not decided on a clutch yet but more than likely Mcleod.
Car is a 69 Camaro we plan on running in A/S, I will start a build thread soon..
We were working on the car last night and these were a few things brought up.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Sean,
If I understand you correctly,when you get enough free travel(clearance between TOB to press plate levers) you have trouble getting enough air gap(disc to flywheel) if that is the case, have you thought about moving the cable @ clutch fork or on pedal to change ratio so it would increase travel of TOB.
I have a assortment of holes on both sides of bellcrank and on pedal so I have a wide range of ratios on clutch linkage.
J&S,
The ratio of my linkage is slowed down right now to where my clutch engages when pedal is almost all the way out,it is so close to top about the time you think pedal is all the way out and it's not going to move it grabs.
Does'nt matter where pedal is as long as it's comfortable to you,ratio of linkage,amount of air gap changes where pedal is when it grabs,make sure you put a heavy duty return spring that pulls clutch fork back,without a spring it may not fully engage clutch,when my Mc Cleod soft locs are adjusted down to base press you can push press plate levers down with your thumb,they are too weak to push linkage,pedal,etc back,
Ratio of linkage will effect reaction time.
The way I have my micro switches when you adjust air gap,the switch is still set and does'nt have to be reset.
Instead of one micro switch use 2,one for line loc,one for 2 step on seperate circuits and then line loc and 2 step will work without having to flip any switches and only time 2 step will activate is when pedal is all the way down against stop.
I have my car so all you do is turn the key and go water,fuel pumps fans all come on w/key,have fans,water pump where can run w/key off also,and always wire gauge lights w/tail light/marker lights so if tail light is required during night racing they won't be forgotten,can't see gauges you don't forget tailights that way,my home track used to DQ for no tail light if their lights were on your tailights were supposed to be on,and that sucked to lose for no tailight.

Mike Taylor 3601

[J&S Racing]

Thanks guys!!!!
I've got a lot to learn but I cant wait to drop the clutch for the first time

Do you also have another switch for the LL for the burn out??

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Yeah have one one shifter. Hope you get to have fun,it takes a little to learn,and what works for your car.
Are you going to have Race Pak or other type of data recorder?
Mike Taylor 3601

[J&S Racing]

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601

Yeah have one one shifter. Hope you get to have fun,it takes a little to learn,and what works for your car.
Are you going to have Race Pak or other type of data recorder?
Mike Taylor 3601

At some point we plan on runing some type of data recorded. I was told it will let you know when the cluctch is needing adjustment before it's felt.

[randy wilson]

Call Steve Thompson. 641-414-6016. He has a new Rob Youngblood dual clutch for sale reasonable. We're quitting.

[Sean Marconette]

The data logger is more for tuning, than anything else. You can see when and for how long the clutch slides before locking up and what your base / CW are doing in high gear, and during shifts. It could save from breaking parts. When you are new at this, it can be quite helpful on what adjustments are needed. In my opinion a good investment.

Do you already have a transmission? If not make sure you order one that is setup for an input shaft speed sensor.


Sean

[james schaechter]

Originally Posted by J&S Racing

At some point we plan on runing some type of data recorded. I was told it will let you know when the cluctch is needing adjustment before it's felt.

It is hard to chunk out the cash for a racepak or similar unit. At the very least find and old playback tach or get creative. I have even mounted an i phone in a spot to record the tach and gauges in a car with no playback.The feedback is very helpful. Also, I think there is more clutch damage done in the burnout box then on the track. Make sure you have a spotter to get you in the water properly. Have a hand signal process worked out. Sometimes a newbie stick racer will absolutely roast the clutch in the water box and the tires aren't turning.
Also, don't shift in the waterbox. Some do, but I have bought a lot of basketcase transmissions from racers that went 2-3 boom.
Get a real good understanding of the throwout bearing to finger clearance.
The fingers, levers, really move a lot. Especially when counterweight is involved. It was mentioned, but it is worth mentioning again. If the fingers touch the levers, the clutch will slip. The response of putting more clutch in to counteract the slip really makes it worse. Then the clutch hits too hard at first, then slips as the rpm goes up and the levers hit the throwout bearing. It is really like you were riding the clutch pedal, but you are not.

Don't assume your racing buddies that race automatics can help you. If they raced a stick in the 70's, god bless them, but it is a much better deal now. Find a current or recent stick racer mentor to help you check stuff out. I met one guy that had a brand new A Stick car. All good stuff, big money engine. Could not get down the track! He had asked his probracket racing buddies what tires to get. Their choice? Radials! Stuff like that can make your early experiences challenging.

Racing a stick is waaaaaay more fun than an automatic and the parts are decent. Spend money right on drivetrain up front though. Welcome to stick class racing!

[J&S Racing]

Originally Posted by james schaechter

It is hard to chunk out the cash for a racepak or similar unit. At the very least find and old playback tach or get creative. I have even mounted an i phone in a spot to record the tach and gauges in a car with no playback.The feedback is very helpful. Also, I think there is more clutch damage done in the burnout box then on the track. Make sure you have a spotter to get you in the water properly. Have a hand signal process worked out. Sometimes a newbie stick racer will absolutely roast the clutch in the water box and the tires aren't turning.
Also, don't shift in the waterbox. Some do, but I have bought a lot of basketcase transmissions from racers that went 2-3 boom.
Get a real good understanding of the throwout bearing to finger clearance.
The fingers, levers, really move a lot. Especially when counterweight is involved. It was mentioned, but it is worth mentioning again. If the fingers touch the levers, the clutch will slip. The response of putting more clutch in to counteract the slip really makes it worse. Then the clutch hits too hard at first, then slips as the rpm goes up and the levers hit the throwout bearing. It is really like you were riding the clutch pedal, but you are not.

Don't assume your racing buddies that race automatics can help you. If they raced a stick in the 70's, god bless them, but it is a much better deal now. Find a current or recent stick racer mentor to help you check stuff out. I met one guy that had a brand new A Stick car. All good stuff, big money engine. Could not get down the track! He had asked his probracket racing buddies what tires to get. Their choice? Radials! Stuff like that can make your early experiences challenging.

Racing a stick is waaaaaay more fun than an automatic and the parts are decent. Spend money right on drivetrain up front though. Welcome to stick class racing!

Last year I started using a gopro in the old mans S/C dragster to watch tack,gauges and more important him, lol... It was amazing all the small things I was able to pick up and really turned things around for us. I absolutely plan on using it in the stocker!!
I also paid a lot of attention to how I was setting his tires in the water and how it affects the burn out.
After all the research I did watching stockers I think our plan is to stop about a tire roll to the edge of the water and when given the signal bring it to the waters edge and let her rip. I have seen some guys spin the tires then drive outta the box to do the burn out but to me it seems like that's a good way to sling water up into the wheel wells only to drip on the tires while staging. I have also seen a lot of guys not get the tires wet enough and struggle to get them spinning.

[Paul Merolla]

Originally Posted by james schaechter

Get a real good understanding of the throwout bearing to finger clearance.
The fingers, levers, really move a lot. Especially when counterweight is involved. It was mentioned, but it is worth mentioning again. If the fingers touch the levers, the clutch will slip. The response of putting more clutch in to counteract the slip really makes it worse. Then the clutch hits too hard at first, then slips as the rpm goes up and the levers hit the throwout bearing. It is really like you were riding the clutch pedal, but you are not.

I learned this part the hard way this year...cost me a lot of frustration at the track and a few bucks, too. On the bright side, I will never make that mistake again!
As for the 2-step / line lock setup, I like it simple and did mine like this: Normally closed microswitch that opens when the clutch pedal is all the way up. That's to run the 2-step, and the red button on the shifter is for the line lock. I just had to learn to put my left foot flat on the floorboard after the launch or else I'd end up resting it on the clutch pedal and turning on the 2-step.
Also, Jim is dead on regarding the fun factor!