Suspension help

[Mark Yacavone]

Phil, The dyno sheet will tell where the flash needs to be for optimum performance.
The stator configuration in the converter is what you need to be working on to get where you want to be for starting line RPM to get a good light.
Likewise with the front suspension raising up on the line .That's an inherent action due to the type of rear suspension used. There are work around solutions to control this, but they are not necessarily the best solution for the quickest ET, but rather to tune the reaction time.

[HP HUNTER]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Phil, The dyno sheet will tell where the flash needs to be for optimum performance.
The stator configuration in the converter is what you need to be working on to get where you want to be for starting line RPM to get a good light.
Likewise with the front suspension raising up on the line .That's an inherent action due to the type of rear suspension used. There are work around solutions to control this, but they are not necessarily the best solution for the quickest ET, but rather to tune the reaction time.

How much does your 8 inch converter weigh?

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by HP HUNTER

How much does your 8 inch converter weigh?

16-18 lbs, depending on the application ( GM, Ford)

[1320racer]

the spread is greater than 2 lbs. depending on the manufacturer but again nothing to do with philbilly's issue or it's fix.

[Mark Yacavone]

Ken,

What's that annoying, buzzing sound on this site? I thought you got rid of it a few months ago???

[1320racer]

Mark, as a businessman you should refrain from those type of replys.

Ed as Mark has stated, the issue of the front suspension rising while coming up on the converter in a footbrake car is due to the type of suspension not the converter.

Again look to the best working GM A Body stockers over the last decade + and you won't see their front ends rising nor that of my former ride.

[philbilly]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

the spread is greater than 2 lbs. depending on the manufacturer but again nothing to do with philbilly's issue or it's fix.

is it a kit to buy or just some work? I was talking with dennis he is boss man he thinks it got worse when we put the anti roll on. we never stall the car much at all. 1800 to 2300 at most

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by philbilly

is it a kit to buy or just some work?

The fix has been in use by a small number of stockers and bracket cars including my former car since ~ 2002. My car, doing exactly as you describe, is what got me and that of a friend, a bracket racer and stock eliminator racer from jersey thinking, which resulted in the solution and naming it. I then gave this idea to Alf Weibe who tried it and ultimately made it available for sale as part of a "front end" kit that also included longer ball joints.

These videos from the same day in 2007, shows me deeped staged at ~ 2600 RPM with no front end rise...

http://www.streetfire.net/video/ed-b...lle_105744.htm

http://www.streetfire.net/video/ed-b...lle_105748.htm

FYI, the converter is a tight ATI Treemaster 8" that flashed to 5400 RPM.

ALL GM A Body cars of this era have this issue as do the F and X body cars but to a lesser degree. So do GM G body cars.

[philbilly]

^^ I would like to try some front end stuff on the chevelle. I tried to search but I am a idiot. Is it possible for a man to achieve the same goal with out art wieble??
Ballpark whats a front end kit cost?

[Randy Guest]

I run a 1968 chevelle 375/396 in c/sa and does the same thing i put bigger back brake shoes on the rear hoping to hold the car from raising and it did not work . I would very much appecate any other ideas .it did same thing with differant converters. thanks Randy Guest Stock 4008