|
|
![]() |
#1 | |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Egg Harbor Township, NJ
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 1,453
Liked 4,379 Times in 502 Posts
|
![]() Quote:
Last edited by Bobby Fazio; 03-11-2014 at 09:44 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
Yes moving it will change your brake line pressure. Usually a 5:1 pedal ratio equates to 1000lbs of pressure with a .750 MC
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
www.wallaceracing.com/brake-master-cyl-calc1.php
The website above let's you calculate pedal ratio, you put in your info and it tells you brake line pressure. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
When you put your info in. It'll ask you your pedal pressure, there are 2 of them, one for your foot and one for a hand brake. It's 150lbs pedal pressure for your foot, and 75 lbs for a hand brake. Ok?
Last edited by Fr8teamster; 03-11-2014 at 08:54 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
Remember 1000lbs of brake line pressure is ideal, around 1200lbs under hard braking. When I build brake pedals, I shoot for a 5:1 ratio and a .750 MC works out to 1000lbs. It sounds complicated but its really not. Just shorten the distance from the pivot hole to the pushrod hole. If yours measure 3" and your pedal measures 10" that's your 3:1 ratio. All you have to do is drill a hole1" closer to the pushrod. So the distance is 2" instead of 3" that will change your pedal ratio to 5:1 and you can use a .750 MC. Ok?
Last edited by Fr8teamster; 03-11-2014 at 09:12 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Egg Harbor Township, NJ
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 1,453
Liked 4,379 Times in 502 Posts
|
![]()
1.125 master cylinder.. general consensus seems to be pedal ratio so lemme at it!
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia
Posts: 1,311
Likes: 317
Liked 1,106 Times in 303 Posts
|
![]()
Probably getting harder to find now, but when I was building my 85 Mustang, I found a stock 4 banger early Fox Mustang with manual brakes, and removed the factory brake pedal, aluminum master cylinder and mounting plate, along with the longer lines from the master cylinder to the distribution valve, and it has been working great for over 10 years now. I got my manual steering rack the same way.I just let the Ford engineers do the calculations.
__________________
NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 786
Likes: 2,876
Liked 370 Times in 101 Posts
|
![]()
I used a mid 80s Ford Ranger master cylinder, 15/16" ,and a modified brake pedal from Baer ,with a pushrod that is slightly curved. what is nice about the ranger master cylinder, the lines are on the fender side, instead of being in the way.
__________________
Jerry Heath I/S '93 Cobra FS/J 2010 Mustang "Ebay CJ" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|