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#1 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Avon, Indiana
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Restricted clutches = restricted converters (Lock up converters for one, are not addressed) How is it that a stick shift driver is required to make 4 clutch assisted shifts (Which I've done hundreds of times) and an automatic driver who needs to move a handle once or twice is allowed a chip-assisted auto air shifter? (Rolls eyes) I realize your honorable intent here but in the end, or perhaps from day one an experienced racer with adequate funding will dominate this class and you'll be right back where you are today with a new, expensive heads up eliminator.
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Scott Wilcox 2193 3x National Champion SS/A, SS/B, SS/K, SS/L, SS/AM, A/SM, C/SM, B/A, C/A, G/A, H/A |
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#2 |
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Could be right. No lock up converters should be addressed. That being said I ain't too bright on autos, so please explain. And I ain't being smart, I truly want to know. Is an auto better under these circumstances? We've also thought of only allowing clutch cars. I know Comp gives autos a 250# break, and their own index, and I've noticed both classes run realitively close to each other. I realize that's compared to a clutchless, but just my experience, and believe me when I say I realize we never had a Comp type clutch dialed in, but we only gained .06 going to a clutchless.
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#3 |
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Location: Richmond Indiana
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Seems like a Stick racer should offer an inexpensive Clutch /trans rule that would be a good starting point. No lock up converter is a good rule suggestion.
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#4 | |
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The reality I think you fail to see here is the overall advancement of technology and the related costs. Few people here have raced in a heads up eliminator. You've run comp before so you know what I mean. Your proposals will limit costs somewhat but in the end money will rule even more so than the class based eliminators. The guys who can't keep up will get discouraged and quit and here we are. Fact: Drag racing in any form is very expensive.
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Scott Wilcox 2193 3x National Champion SS/A, SS/B, SS/K, SS/L, SS/AM, A/SM, C/SM, B/A, C/A, G/A, H/A |
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#5 | |
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Dave Casey 1330 STK |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2006
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No inexpensive trans out there.
G Force 4000+ Jerico 4000+ No ones going to run anything else because it wont last JMO....
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Ed Carpenter 2005 Chevy Cobalt A/SM Race Engine Development |
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#7 |
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Thanks guy. But I have not ran Comp, I attempted to get to run comp. Big difference. Ha! I truly do respect any and all opinions, but I must disagree with the fact that the cost would get out of control unless allowed to. The problem in my opinion early in Mod was tech turned a blind eye to discrepancies. I remember running Modified at Bristol in the 80's, and watched a D\EM run and he was clutchless the whole way. No one said a word. I watched several others do the same thing. I thought, "What a joke." Either it's a rule, or it's not in my opinion. Now, if policed tightly, I just don't see how it can get out of control, but I'm willing to listen. Let's break it down a little. Block, around $2,000. heads with the best allowed parts, with rockers,$4,000, intake, even if CFE or Wilson does it. $1,800, pistons, $1,800, best rings, $1,300, crank allowed $1,000, rods, $1,100, oil pan, $1,000, carb, $1,200, spacer, $100, cam, $500, lifters, the best, $1,200, cam gear and chain, the best, $250, Harmonic balancer, $500, water pump, $250, oil pump, $100, distibutor and crank trigger, $500, valve covers, $250, push rods, $500, plus $3,000 misc. That comes to $22,350. Way cheaper then some classes, and most have at least 60% of this stuff laying around. How can it get out of control? Have a very tight rein on the heads, and cost will be down. Plus, you never have to update the heads, and if you hurt one, $500 buys you a bare spare.
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#8 |
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I agree, those two trans are the only way to go, but many already have them, and they will last a long while. I know me personally, I would rather run a clutch assisted with a 250# wt. break then an auto against a true clutchless, but that's just me.
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#9 |
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This is directed to Pvr Parts. I may have just had a bad experience with trick clutches, but after spending $3,800 for a small diameter dual disc to replace our McCleod softloc, we had big expectations. The car went from running 5.90's at 119 mph to running 6.20's at 117 mph. We turned every nob on the thing, and if it slipped, it ran 6.20's, if it locked up, it ran 6.20's. Nothing changed. We could have bracket raced it, but it wouldn't get out of it's own way. Went back to single disc, 5.85, 120 MPH. Go figure. I just hated buying things guaranteed to help, that do nothing but kill your momentum. And no we never tried a different brand. If a mule kicks you twice it's your own damn fault. And I will not bad mouth the clutch company. Many are successful with it.
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#10 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Ga.
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My car is an almost perfect fit for your rules proposal.....except I'd have to add a few pounds.........which I wouldn't like. I have made as many clutch assisted passes as most and working from strickly base is a non issue for me.........I don't understand the problem the other guys are having? I use a 10.5 Soft Lok and Nash ....... |
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