Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings

[Dragsinger]

Boss,

after several buildups with different brands of control arm bushings when building the Super 10 I returned to the basics and installed factory style bushings.

With the upper bushings I removed the serrations then tightened the retaining nuts to remove all slack with a very slight pre-load. The upper arms move smoothly with VERY slight resistance.

With the Super 10 the lower bushings do not have serrations. [your Nova may be different] Whichever way yours are mounted the goal is change the attaching hardware as need to just remove slack yet have a smooth movement with little resistance.

In my opinion, because of advancements with tires and track prep the above suggestion is completely acceptable.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

I have just put allstar lower roller bushings,bushing goes in a-arm then rollers are inside of it,then there 2 inner bushing/race that goes inside of bearings and has thrust/needle bearing in each end bushing that goes inside of rollers appears to be hardened.
I couldn't come with up roller uppers,so I made some,took steel uppers from allstar drilled them and reamed to 13/16 (.812) for roller bearing and ground cross shafts in crank grinder from 11/16 down to 5/8 to fit ID of bearings,and cut a recessed place on each end for thrust bearings.
I think if it wore it would take a long time,they move very little compared to what the bearings are designed to do,they are made for shaft to rotate in,take a alternator as example the shaft spins thousands of rpm for 1000's of miles.
I am more concerned of busting needles or flat spotting shaft with hard landing.
I had the solid allstars before .
Mike Taylor 3601