Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings

[Dragsinger]

Lew,

this is just my thought, I have no facts or testing to say one way or the other although some hard core test data would be nice. It is simply what seems reasonable to me

In my opinion, when considering the front suspension of a factory frame, factory a arm style set up a small amount of deflection or cushion may be beneficial. It might give just enough cushion to smooth out a landing and not upset the rear suspension.

And of course I completely understand the importance of shocks and also understand that shock control is primary.

I have a go to chassis and shock friend I will pose this idea to him and will post his thoughts.

[Run to Rund]

I have installed the solid bushings in the lower arms; they have an inner and outer part. Often the holes in the arms aren't in perfect alignment and you have to use a die grinder to open the holes in the arms to get them perfect, using a 1/2" rod through the steel bushings to check. Then you have to weld the outer sleeves to the arms, and re-check. Plan on taking 1-2 days to get it right. Hence Jack Arnew's recommendation to use rubber bushings because they will deflect to compensate for poor alignment of the holes in the factory A arms.

[Bill Diehl]

Originally Posted by Run to Rund

I have installed the solid bushings in the lower arms; they have an inner and outer part. Often the holes in the arms aren't in perfect alignment and you have to use a die grinder to open the holes in the arms to get them perfect, using a 1/2" rod through the steel bushings to check. Then you have to weld the outer sleeves to the arms, and re-check. Plan on taking 1-2 days to get it right. Hence Jack Arnew's recommendation to use rubber bushings because they will deflect to compensate for poor alignment of the holes in the factory A arms.

This is a good post here....its all about precise control, that roller bushings give you,if you take the time to do it right, and...its what you need for $1200 dollar shocks. If you are using rubber you don't need $1200 dollar shocks.


Now, somebody will say they did this with that, but the fact of the matter is, its precision control you are after...otherwise prostocks wouldn't be blowing 18 grand on rear shocks


It all boils down too....what "level" do you want to take your project

[jack arnew]

Originally Posted by Bill Diehl

This is a good post here....its all about precise control, that roller bushings give you,if you take the time to do it right, and...its what you need for $1200 dollar shocks. If you are using rubber you don't need $1200 dollar shocks.


Now, somebody will say they did this with that, but the fact of the matter is, its precision control you are after...otherwise prostocks wouldn't be blowing 18 grand on rear shocks


It all boils down too....what "level" do you want to take your project

Bill, was that(somebody will say) coment aimed at me? If not great, but if so please remember 95% of my work is and was done for those who could not afford to run a car with high dollar equiptment. For those who could we used the best available at the time.

[Run to Rund]

See the June 1976 Super Stock & Drag Illustrated, p. 56 for a write-up of Jack Arnew's innovative and effective work, back when suspension science was very young.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Bill Diehl

This is a good post here....its all about precise control, that roller bushings give you,if you take the time to do it right, and...its what you need for $1200 dollar shocks. If you are using rubber you don't need $1200 dollar shocks.


Now, somebody will say they did this with that, but the fact of the matter is, its precision control you are after...otherwise prostocks wouldn't be blowing 18 grand on rear shocks


It all boils down too....what "level" do you want to take your project

Bill, you might think about putting an IMHO in front of some of those statements. :-)

[Bill Diehl]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Bill, you might think about putting an IMHO in front of some of those statements. :-)

Yes, Ed you are correct... just my 2 cents or opinion and not directed towards anybody.

[jack arnew]

Originally Posted by Run to Rund

I have installed the solid bushings in the lower arms; they have an inner and outer part. Often the holes in the arms aren't in perfect alignment and you have to use a die grinder to open the holes in the arms to get them perfect, using a 1/2" rod through the steel bushings to check. Then you have to weld the outer sleeves to the arms, and re-check. Plan on taking 1-2 days to get it right. Hence Jack Arnew's recommendation to use rubber bushings because they will deflect to compensate for poor alignment of the holes in the factory A arms.

I have seen this method used with very good results,but found it easer to adjust the holes in the cross member and then weld thick washers to support the now realighned bushings. More often than not I would cut the control arm to get the adjustment needed and then alighn the bushing hole before rewelding. This method was adapted to upper and lower arms that were not produced with a cross shaft cross shaft. Alightment was not a problen with or without roller bushings as I had my own jigs for arns not using a shaft