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#1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Pittsburgh
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I too always wondered about C11... The residuals from combustion seem to be terribly hygroscopic.... I've seen rust on almost every part post-combustion, but nothing on the intake side... Its not the fuel itself, it appears to be after its burned....
If I know I'm not going to run the car for a while, when I pull it in the garage, I open the hood, then kill the fuel pump and work the throttle on the carb while I spray in the oil, and keep the Revs up until the float bowl is dry and the engine dies. This has alleviated all of the issues. The white smoke and odor of this operation wafting up through the house is not at all appreciated by the wife however.... ![]() Last edited by Kevin Panzino; 02-22-2015 at 09:55 PM. |
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#2 |
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Location: Moncton, N.B.
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Not to hi-jack the thread,but, is it common practice to turn off the fuel pump when fogging the engine?
Also the "mystery" oil is a MYSTERY to me up here in the white north. I can get a "fogging" oil from a lot of suppliers but not mystery oil!!!! |
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#3 |
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Location: Hickory, Ky
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I fog the engine down at the end of the race.
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#4 |
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Google Marvel Mystery oil for info. This has been used for many years - on the dragster we pulled the plugs and used a squirt bottle to oil the cyls, then turned over by hand. I remember Dave L. on his ramp truck fogging the Camaro after loading to head home.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sherwood Park, Alberta
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Terry,
Canadian Tire did sell Marvel Mystery Oil out here in the west not sure if they still do. There is also a CRC aerosol product the motorcycle guys use but then you would have to pull plugs and spray the cylinders. Might need to go south and buy a couple of cases of Marvel. I bought 3 cases 6 years ago and only have one can left.
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Mike Semeniuk 632 GTMA |
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#6 |
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Cast iron rusts very quickly and always has. Your headers allow moisture/condensation to get in their especially when the exhaust valve is off it's seat.
Hold the carb wide open after a race and use MMO or ATF or WD-40 and crank the engine over to draw the stuff in past the carb. I used to use a rag to absorb the gas from the carb accelerator pump. Stuff rags in your open headers or find a plastic cap that fits.. Plastic Caps from various pipes might work....they protect the threads on new pipe and once you have the right size.....they work perfect.... Exhaust seat/valve rust was always a problem.....
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Rich Biebel S/C 1479 Stock 147R |
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#7 |
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Somebody on Class Racer used to sell header plugs that had the moisture absorbing crystals inside, maybe someone on here remembers who was selling them.
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Jerry Heath I/S '93 Cobra FS/J 2010 Mustang "Ebay CJ" |
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#8 |
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Mike, Canadian Tire do sell a fogging oil.I used it last fall.I my have to bone up on my
procedure though. Terry K |
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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Nerf balls make great header plugs. They make lot of different sizes of little footballs and other balls. Cheap and easy to find at WalMart, etc. Also wont hurt much if you crank it over and forget to pull them out... they just shoot out of the headers. Might have to chase them down.
Let the pipes cool before sticking the balls into the pipes. Good luck. Ken Stock 412 |
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