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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lewiston NY
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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So far I got seat out , lower dash out, upper dash out, and I have to see the nut toward the pass. side yet. called it a night. hit it again Saturday
Thanks for the reply. Slickfoot |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: E TN
Posts: 474
Likes: 16
Liked 133 Times in 76 Posts
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I've been able to just remove the bolt but it's probably easier to remove the whole quadrant. If you remove it all it makes it easy to mock it all up including mounting the MC. You can make a guide for the brake rod and weld it in so it would be impossible for it to pull out of MC and fall down. I've also mocked it all up and bled the MC by pushing the pedal while it's all in a vise, much easier. For a stop you can weld a piece of tubing at an angle and use a bolt in it with nuts on either end of the tubing as an adjustment.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: TN
Posts: 530
Likes: 436
Liked 242 Times in 81 Posts
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So why not do the obvious and put a stick in it? A lot more fun to drive. It only takes 300psi to hold on line.
__________________
Rod Greene Real men shift for them selves. Slowly working on TA Challenger for D,E/S and a 72 Challenger for SS/K, L as if I don't have enough other projects. |
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#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
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easiest way is the remove the steering column and the pedal assembly with bracket practically falls right out.
__________________
NHRA Stock/Super Stock 1078 |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lewiston NY
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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It's out !!!! Thank God It's out
Thanks for all the posts and help. Slickfoot |
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