Lightened ring gear, riffle drilled and star flanged axles?

[Jim Caughlin]

I did do back to back test on steel (13#) vs alum (10#) driveshafts, zero improvement. In my case, I have a pretty low HP high RPM combination so if anyone would improve, I would have thought it would have been my car.I also have all the lightweight rearend parts. I really don't think there is any performance difference in any of it. That being said, if I were starting over, I would buy the lightweight stuff anyway. It just seems that intuitively it is better to have the lightest rotating parts regardless. At least it gives you the opportunity to run lighter or put sprung ballast in the car if needed.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

[Ed Wright]

Diameter has a big effect. Ten lbs flywheel weight has more effect than ten lbs crankshaft or driveshaft weight. Axles? I can not imagine seeing anything. Another one of those "it can't hurt" deals.

[Jim Caughlin]

On the subject of flywheel weight, reducing clutch and flywheel weight and diameter made HUGE improvements in my car. I would have to think that alum torque converters would have the same effect for the auto trans guys.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

[Ed Wright]

Jim, I have heard mixed reviews about those. I'm told by a gentleman that runs a fast hood scoop SS car they can be worth as much as a tenths. A friend with a good, conventional SS car he saw nothing, but a much lighter pocket book. Might be related to RPM range?
I can't afford the five grand I was told they cost anyway.

[james schaechter]

I think that the Benefit would be so small. It would be hard to measure. There are a lot of good cars out there without any of this stuff.That being said, I think if you keep picking away at the areas mentioned, to lighten the car in all areas you can, especially unsprung weight, it can make a difference. It can make a good car a great car! Hard to measure, but sometimes that is the difference between qualifying or not at INDY.
I can tell you that our car has been one of these efforts. We have worked over the years to lighten up things we could afford. It maybe isn't quicker or faster in good conditions, but we can move weight around better and the car is more tune able to be good even in rough track conditions. If you think you can pick one of these things and make the car fly, you will be disappointed. If you are scratching out every Hundreth to be competitive, it might be worth it.

I don't think a bracket car would be worth doing it for the cost involved.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by Jim Caughlin

On the subject of flywheel weight, reducing clutch and flywheel weight and diameter made HUGE improvements in my car. I would have to think that alum torque converters would have the same effect for the auto trans guys.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

When I ran a stick in my car 7 lbs off the flywheel was worth 2 tents.

[james schaechter]

Originally Posted by Mike Pearson

When I ran a stick in my car 7 lbs off the flywheel was worth 2 tents.

Wow what was the total weight before for your clutch assembly?,

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by james schaechter

Wow what was the total weight before for your clutch assembly?,

That was going from a 20 lb steel flywheel to a 13 lb aluminum with a steel face. All old school clutch stuff from Ram.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Mike Pearson

When I ran a stick in my car 7 lbs off the flywheel was worth 2 tents.

Mike, that is a large enough radius to see something. An axle? Not so much.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Mike, that is a large enough radius to see something. An axle? Not so much.

I put a lightened ring gear in my Dana and did not see any ET reduction. Changed the ratio at the same time so not a real good test. All of my driveline stuff is real heavy. A hold over from my stick days.