Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil

[GUMP]

I run Mobil 1 in all of my race cars. The 396 that I just pulled from my COPO looked super clean after over 200 runs. The bearings looked new.

[Ed Wright]

I used Mobil1 for years, then started hearing how I should use "real race oil with more zink", things don't look one bit better than they did with Mobil1. Just costs more money. No sludge, either.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

I used Mobil1 for years, then started hearing how I should use "real race oil with more zink", things don't look one bit better than they did with Mobil1. Just costs more money. No sludge, either.

Same here Ed. I used Mobile 1 but after breaking a couple of lifters I decided not to use any more passenger car oil or filters. I have been using the Valvoline synthetic Racing oil and I have a System One oil filter. Gibbs Break in oil for the first 10 - 15 runs then the syn.

[Alan Roehrich]

The thing with motor oil and additives is the same as with a lot of other things in the racing world: more is not always better.

An engine can only use so much ZDDP ("zinc"), molydisulfide, and other additives. And an oil can only hold so much of any additive(s) in suspension. After that point is reached, the additives only serve to take the place of lubricating oil, and create deposits.

Combine those deposits and excess additives with oil filters that have a very fine filtration media, and you can have a recipe for disaster.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Mike Pearson

Same here Ed. I used Mobile 1 but after breaking a couple of lifters I decided not to use any more passenger car oil or filters. I have been using the Valvoline synthetic Racing oil and I have a System One oil filter. Gibbs Break in oil for the first 10 - 15 runs then the syn.

Only reason I got off of Mobile1 is I was burning the ends off a couple of intake pushrods on cold starts. I was lectured about not having race oil with more zink. Race oil didn't help the pushrods, I had changed the lifters. Had to file a small groove to add oil upstairs. That fixed that. Just never did change back, but I think I will now. Have used up the race oil I bought. Mobil1 is much cheaper. I have also had very good luck with 5W20 Valvoline VR1 as well. If I have a heads up I'm concerned with, and I am feeling good (don't always anymore), and I think my rings are sealed up, I will still put Royal Purple zero-10wt in it. If ring seal is not good, that zero wt oil will slow you down. Ask me how I know. LOL

[Frank Castros]

How about posting a poll about oil?

[Eman]

Why would you run dirty break in oil in your brand new motor? Is oil that expensive? I break a motor in and drain the oil, replace the filter and cut the filter open. the oil will look metallic if you drain some into a glass jar as it's coming out.
I also install rare earth (neodymium)magnets throughout my motor, if you've never used one you have no idea how strong they are.
As for oil I went from Mobil 1 with Lucas Zinc additive to Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 and now Lucas Hot Rod oil. Lucas supports the sport and the oil is good. It's been available from Summit at a good price and with their policy it's free shipping. Couldn't buy VR-1 10w-30 locally so I was using Amazon for it.

[Ed Wright]

NAPA Auto Parts stores around here carry Valvoline VR1.