Ladder bar tuning / adjusting

[cmracing]

Originally Posted by joespanova

I've had the bars off completely , and IIRC thats when I made the observation about everything not going back together without a fight........been a while though. Actually , moving the bars up or down IS relatively easy.......suprised you would suggest that.

Moving the front of the bar is a piece of cake, but getting the pinion angle back to where you want it can be a whole 'nother story. You can easily run out of adjustment on the double adjuster, now what. You are forced to take the bars off to change the length of the upper and lower rod ends and get the double adjuster back in a usable range.

[Ed Carpenter]

I have a 66 Chevy II with a old school leaf spring ladder bar set up from the early 80's (I'm not joking). We have a 327350hp combo. We have the bars in the bottom hole with front shocks turned as tight as they will go and travel limiter a tight as they can go also. We are trying to stop the car from turning over. Anybody at the track can verify what I'm.saying. This thing goes higher in second gear than the actual launch. We run a stick car so different from setups talked about on here. Last time out in SS/H we ran career best of 9.65@135 with a 1.43 60'

[joespanova]

Originally Posted by Ed Carpenter

I have a 66 Chevy II with a old school leaf spring ladder bar set up from the early 80's (I'm not joking). We have a 327350hp combo. We have the bars in the bottom hole with front shocks turned as tight as they will go and travel limiter a tight as they can go also. We are trying to stop the car from turning over. Anybody at the track can verify what I'm.saying. This thing goes higher in second gear than the actual launch. We run a stick car so different from setups talked about on here. Last time out in SS/H we ran career best of 9.65@135 with a 1.43 60'

Ed , my car IS a stick car also........2.98 low , 5.67 Rr. Grs....... McLeod plate , aluminum wheel.
You cant be happy with 1.40s 60s

Oh yeah , almost forgot.I have Chassis Works "floaters' on mine too.............with mono leafs. The car was built in early 90s.

[Ed Carpenter]

I have a 3.19 with a 6.17 at 3025lbs. 2.98 isn't enough IMO

[Chevy55]

Originally Posted by Ed Carpenter

I have a 3.19 with a 6.17 at 3025lbs. 2.98 isn't enough IMO

Those are very impressive numbers that you're running Ed. Off topic but if you don't mind me asking, what rear are you running and what kind of gear life?

[Ed Carpenter]

Originally Posted by Chevy55

Those are very impressive numbers that you're running Ed. Off topic but if you don't mind me asking, what rear are you running and what kind of gear life?

Dana 60 current ring and pinion has about 70 runs on it.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by joespanova

Ed , my car IS a stick car also........2.98 low , 5.67 Rr. Grs....... McLeod plate , aluminum wheel.
You cant be happy with 1.40s 60s

Oh yeah , almost forgot.I have Chassis Works "floaters' on mine too.............with mono leafs. The car was built in early 90s.

Those are rear wheel 60 ft times. You wont run as fast as Ed is with a true 1.40 60 ft. Great to see Ed's car running that well.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by Ed Carpenter

I have a 66 Chevy II with a old school leaf spring ladder bar set up from the early 80's (I'm not joking). We have a 327350hp combo. We have the bars in the bottom hole with front shocks turned as tight as they will go and travel limiter a tight as they can go also. We are trying to stop the car from turning over. Anybody at the track can verify what I'm.saying. This thing goes higher in second gear than the actual launch. We run a stick car so different from setups talked about on here. Last time out in SS/H we ran career best of 9.65@135 with a 1.43 60'

Check and see if Santhuff makes shocks for your car. They will control the wheelstands. They aren't cheap but are the best. Good to see your car running that strong. That is getting it done!