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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 882
Likes: 206
Liked 310 Times in 174 Posts
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Didn't know there is a bow tie block that matches a 273 Mopar.! Oh! The curse of trying to make 50 something old run with modern stuff.
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#2 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 487
Liked 346 Times in 126 Posts
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I guess the real cure without buying a 3K block and getting thick walls, would be to sleeve a 318 to 273 bore size
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#3 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Zeeland, MI
Posts: 98
Likes: 135
Liked 18 Times in 4 Posts
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I believe a Dart SHP block is less than $2000. There is also the money you will spend on the stock block you will not have to spend on the after market block. Filling, cleaning, checking... So that cost can be deducted off the price of an after market block also.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Potomac,IL
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
Liked 71 Times in 23 Posts
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Save yourself the aggravation, I hard blocked my 010 block and went .060. With new cp pistons. After the 1st pass the car slowed down. Made about 20 more runs on it. Tore it apart this winter and the cylinders where .008 out of round. And my new pistons skirts where scuffed really bad. Do yourself a favor and just get a SHP block and be done with it.
__________________
Monte Howard 3209 STK, 3208 SS |
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#5 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NORTHEAST
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
Liked 18 Times in 10 Posts
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I was going to post that as I have seen what you observed with your build but most think I post that to sell new blocks. |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: N/A
Posts: 882
Likes: 0
Liked 22 Times in 22 Posts
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__________________
don,t have one |
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#7 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Glendale, Arizona
Posts: 3,044
Likes: 712
Liked 1,583 Times in 582 Posts
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If you want the best, use MasterFlow 885, formerly known as Embeco 885.
MasterFlow 885 has a metallic aggregate, it is non-shrinking and way stronger than HardBlock or the Moroso product after cured. |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NORTHEAST
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
Liked 18 Times in 10 Posts
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My rule of thumb if you have to fill the block your using the wrong block,
Cylinders change during heat cycles and and never come back to the original machined size. |
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NORTHEAST
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
Liked 18 Times in 10 Posts
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Things that should be addressed when having one of those blocks machined. – Main housing bores chamfered – Freeze plug holes and rear cam hole are chamfered – Line honed to at least the middle of the spec or high side if needed – Decked to your demension – Bore to your spec – Plate honed using the same gasket and hardware that will be used in the end build – Lifter bores checked and honed to the lifters that will be used in the end build – Top of lifter bores chamfered – Bottom of the cylinders chamfered – Tap oil galley holes deeper – Chamfer Distributor hole for O rings. |
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#10 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 487
Liked 346 Times in 126 Posts
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that is great advice for chevy people, how about small block mopars?
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