Hardblock?

[carl hinkson]

My rule of thumb if you have to fill the block your using the wrong block,


Cylinders change during heat cycles and and never come back to the original machined size.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

My rule of thumb if you have to fill the block your using the wrong block,


Cylinders change during heat cycles and and never come back to the original machined size.

So every combo that can not get an aftermarket block should just stop building engines. That is what you are basically saying

[Jim Hanig]

Originally Posted by David Lee

So every combo that can not get an aftermarket block should just stop building engines. That is what you are basically saying

Which engine wòuld that be?

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by Jim Hanig

Which engine wòuld that be?

go look at the replacement blocks listed by the nhra, and try to find some of the rarer combo's. This idea having to run a replacement block and spend vast amount of money to compete will be the nail in the coffin for many people.

[Adger Smith]

I have never experienced any of the out of round problems.
Over the last 30 years I have filled blocks for Circle track, Drag and mud racers as well as boat racers. A few years ago I took a late mod 305 and filled it and bored it to std. 283 for a boat race class. Freshened it once and I think it is still going.
I use a Machine grout and I let it harden at least a month before doing any machine work. I also increase the Piston to wall clearance by at least 40 -50 % . I always test piston growth before deciding on the final cold bore clearance. A water block cylinder moves, a filled block does not and the pistons still grow with the hot oil and combustion heat on them.
Allow for it. On the circle track Applications I only fill to the oil galley holes in the lifter bores. My theory on that is still have water in that part of the cylinder to pull heat out of the oil going through the lifter galleys.
Seems to keep oil temps in check.

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by David Lee

go look at the replacement blocks listed by the nhra, and try to find some of the rarer combo's. This idea having to run a replacement block and spend vast amount of money to compete will be the nail in the coffin for many people.

Work with an old OEM block that is worn out and needs lifter bore bushings, clean & mag sonic test, deck bore, plate hone, better main caps, line bore and line hone, bore and plate hone, add all that up and and after market block is the way to go.

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by David Lee

So every combo that can not get an aftermarket block should just stop building engines. That is what you are basically saying

Sounds like your being a dick head LOL

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

95% of my circle track engines I have built for the last 40 years have been OEM block.

Now I am sure you will find something else to cry about LOL

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

Sounds like your being a dick head LOL

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

95% of my circle track engines I have built for the last 40 years have been OEM block.

Now I am sure you will find something else to cry about LOL

You just contradicted yourself. thanks for proving my point.

[James L Miller]

Now that it's settled, "back to the studio" as Jeremy Clarkson might say.

To summarize, if you can get an aftermarket/HP block for your combo, buy one.

If they don't make one for your combo, either run what you can get or buy a foundry and cast your own and then get it approved by NHRA.

I submitted a 318 piston from Silvolite a couple of years ago to NHRA and never heard anything one way or the other. Good luck getting something approved.

[Alan Nyhus]

Originally Posted by James L Miller

To summarize, if you can get an aftermarket/HP block for your combo, buy one.

If they don't make one for your combo, either run what you can get or buy a foundry and cast your own and then get it approved by NHRA.

James, in your situation with the little 273, maybe the most cost effective approach is to sleeve all eight. I broke a cylinder wall last season that was .125-.130 on the thrust side after boring and prep:



Talk with Matt Steen at Victory Engines @ (507) 532-2436 and get his advice as Matt and Jason really know their way around those motors. -Al