Hardblock?

[James L Miller]

Originally Posted by Alan Nyhus

James, in your situation with the little 273, maybe the most cost effective approach is to sleeve all eight. I broke a cylinder wall last season that was .125-.130 on the thrust side after boring and prep:

Talk with Matt Steen at Victory Engines @ (507) 532-2436 and get his advice as Matt and Jason really know their way around those motors. -Al

My engine guy in Florida wanted to use a 340 block (4.04" bore) and sleeve it down to 273 size (3.63" or somewhat bigger depending on the ring selection). I would have gone for sleeving down a 318 block (3.91").

Alan, was your block filled? The .130" number was fore and aft in the areas between the cylinders. I have talked with Matt, Paul Wong and others on the build. I'm mostly limited by the thickness or thinness of my wallet. It's fairly thick if I fill it with $1 bills, very thin with $100s.

Back to the studio for another round.

[FINESPLINE]

As time goes by the amount of blocks is drying up so first you have to locate a block. $ Then you have to take it to machine shop for multiple tests to see if the block is useable $$$. If it passes at that point, the block needs to be machined $$$$. Than the block needs to be poured $$. Remachine block $$. Now unless your brother-in -law owns a machine shop this starts getting expensive and time consuming. Maybe you should look into pricing all that was just mentioned versus an aftermarket block. Do the math and see what works for you. Hope you get lucky on the first block. Been there done that. Just my take. Hell, I just put a Dart block in my street hot rod. To old to be dumpster diving for blocks. LOL

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by FINESPLINE

As time goes by the amount of blocks is drying up so first you have to locate a block. $ Then you have to take it to machine shop for multiple tests to see if the block is useable $$$. If it passes at that point, the block needs to be machined $$$$. Than the block needs to be poured $$. Remachine block $$. Now unless your brother-in -law owns a machine shop this starts getting expensive and time consuming. Maybe you should look into pricing all that was just mentioned versus an aftermarket block. Do the math and see what works for you. Hope you get lucky on the first block. Been there done that. Just my take. Hell, I just put a Dart block in my street hot rod. To old to be dumpster diving for blocks. LOL

Don't let David Lee see this post !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by David Lee

You just contradicted yourself. thanks for proving my point.

Now I just proved you were being a dick head thats all.

By 2 PM's I received I guess I am not the only one that feels that way LOL

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

My rule of thumb if you have to fill the block your using the wrong block,


Cylinders change during heat cycles and and never come back to the original machined size.

Carl , I think David's point should be well taken.
You're not using the wrong block, if there is no replacement available.
The last block that I filled , did not have a replacement.
After several no. 1 qualifiers and a Nat'l record, it never dawned on me that I was using the wrong block.
Perhaps you should have qualified that statement at the outset. Just sayin' .

[James L Miller]

Mark, thank you for standing up for those of us that want to run an odd-ball (Non-Chevy) combo. I didn't see a Mopar 273 on Carl's website.

http://hinksonautomotive-cncblocks.com/products/

[Bill Bogues]

On our 267 chevy we took a 305 block and sleeved it down to 3.50. Didn't fill it and had reasonably thick cylinder walls. Still leaks 2 to 4%after 60 runs. Aftermarket block is the best way to go but we ended up with a decent block for half the price of aftermarket.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by Bill Bogues

On our 267 chevy we took a 305 block and sleeved it down to 3.50. Didn't fill it and had reasonably thick cylinder walls. Still leaks 2 to 4%after 60 runs. Aftermarket block is the best way to go but we ended up with a decent block for half the price of aftermarket.

Do you think adding hardblock would have helped the leakdown?

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by Bill Bogues

On our 267 chevy we took a 305 block and sleeved it down to 3.50. Didn't fill it and had reasonably thick cylinder walls. Still leaks 2 to 4%after 60 runs. Aftermarket block is the best way to go but we ended up with a decent block for half the price of aftermarket.

From what I have seen with sleeving blocks and more so all eight sleeves put a lot of unwanted stress in the block and after a few heat cycle the cylinders don't stay round.

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by James L Miller

Mark, thank you for standing up for those of us that want to run an odd-ball (Non-Chevy) combo. I didn't see a Mopar 273 on Carl's website.

http://hinksonautomotive-cncblocks.com/products/

I have no interest in CNC machining Mopar blocks not much call over the years so its not worth tooling up for a block you might do once a year