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Old 11-12-2017, 04:01 PM   #1
JHeath
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Default Re: Bellhousing

I bought the McLeod SBF bellhousing for my 93 Mustang stocker, it is really nice, thinking of using it on my CJ project. I am not sure about the fork, the stock mustang cable will work, haven't really looked at what I will need for mechanical linkage.
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Old 11-12-2017, 10:58 PM   #2
b.guggenmos
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Default Re: Bellhousing

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Originally Posted by JHeath View Post
I bought the McLeod SBF bellhousing for my 93 Mustang stocker, it is really nice, thinking of using it on my CJ project. I am not sure about the fork, the stock mustang cable will work, haven't really looked at what I will need for mechanical linkage.
Nice big window. What trans are you running with that bell? I heard the depth is for a T5 and that is different than a Jerico?
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Old 11-12-2017, 11:08 PM   #3
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Default Re: Bellhousing

My Jerico is T5 input length
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:19 PM   #4
john lemoine
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Default Re: Bellhousing

hey jerry on another note did you find someone to make you headers on you cobra jet project thanks john lemoine
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:00 AM   #5
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Default Re: Bellhousing

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Nice big window. What trans are you running with that bell? I heard the depth is for a T5 and that is different than a Jerico?
So is mine Brian. Any SB Ford application using the FOX style cable clutch needs to use the longer T5 input shaft and deeper bellhousing to have enough room for it to all fit. The Jerico for my FE has an input shaft that is about an inch shorter than the one for my small block. You just order the correct input (or trans) from Jerico for your application. That is how both my Jericos came to have the correct length input shafts and tip dimensions for my Fords, but have the MoPar "Hemi" 18 spline configuration, which allows me to use the small input Ford throw out bearing and fork.
Jerry, thats a great looking bellhousing, does McLeod have those in stock for SB Fords? My steel McLeod bell is coming due for a re cert, less weight and a window would sure be nice. Does yours have provision for both the 157 and 164 tooth flywheel and starter?
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Old 11-13-2017, 08:44 AM   #6
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Default Re: Bellhousing

I bought it from Jegs, a 164 tooth flywheel will fit. part # is 8560T
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:39 PM   #7
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Default Re: Bellhousing

I run a Quicktime SBF bellhousing, I would guess looking at the picture of the McLeod that they would be comparable in weight. For sure the Lakewood unit is way heavier and also considerably dimensionally larger. In the case of the Quicktime, they only fit the 157 tooth, not the larger 164. Also, Quicktime used to be a pretty good price, after they got bought out, the price virtually doubles, as I recall the SBF unit is around $600. No complaints with the quality though.

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Old 11-13-2017, 10:16 PM   #8
JohnRoderick
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Default Re: Bellhousing

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHeath View Post
I bought the McLeod SBF bellhousing for my 93 Mustang stocker, it is really nice, thinking of using it on my CJ project. I am not sure about the fork, the stock mustang cable will work, haven't really looked at what I will need for mechanical linkage.


Can you or anyone else that has used this bellhousing comment on how easy it is for you to set the air gap with the inspection window that far back?

Thanks,
John
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Old 11-13-2017, 10:52 PM   #9
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Default Re: Bellhousing

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Can you or anyone else that has used this bellhousing comment on how easy it is for you to set the air gap with the inspection window that far back?

Thanks,
John
Checking the air gap requires an extra hole drilled between the window and the mounting surface. Mine is at the 6 o'clock position. I use long machinist feeler gauges to reach the disc.

Kelly
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Old 11-14-2017, 11:42 AM   #10
Jim Caughlin
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Default Re: Bellhousing

Regarding air gap, yes you have to drill a hole to check clearance and also note that after you drill the hole, you have voided getting the bellhousing recertified. As you are mainly looking for the minimum air gap, I have a round rod (that is the minimum gap diameter) that fits through the hole easier, I ground it to a point at the end so it will slide into position easier. Bear in mind that if you are shifting without the clutch (which pretty much everyone is) that air gap is not that big of a deal, mainly I use it as a delay box for fine tuning reaction time.

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