Throttle Stop w/ 1 blade TB / roll RPM Q

[Tom Goldman]

Launching on motor is a smart move . ....You wont have to worry about overpowering the track and will be able to keep a more consistent 60'.
The only thing I would be wary of is spinning the tires down track when the boost comes in .

[DailyDriverSst]

Originally Posted by Tom Goldman

Launching on motor is a smart move . ....You wont have to worry about overpowering the track and will be able to keep a more consistent 60'.
The only thing I would be wary of is spinning the tires down track when the boost comes in .

If I spin downtrack with a 30.0 / 9.0 ( MT 3066 ) tire, I probably will have other problems. Especially if I can keep it down around 4-5-6 psi. Really depends on how aggressively it comes off the stop, and if I do the 1-2 shift on the stop or afterward. Only testing will be able to sort that out.

[Tom Goldman]

With a small tire like that , shift on the stop . less likely to spin and you will get more MPH
The 3066 is a bias tire so it should handle coming back under power with that low boost.

[C5 Pete]

Question about the single blade TB.

Are you talking about a cable operated TB with a throttle stop, or using a plate under a DBW TB?

I’m trying to figure out a solution to this same problem as the OP. I’m currently using a DBW TB, but I can make the switch to cable, if it’s the only way to make it work.

Thanks for any guidance.

[DailyDriverSst]

Originally Posted by C5 Pete

Question about the single blade TB.

Are you talking about a cable operated TB with a throttle stop, or using a plate under a DBW TB?

I’m trying to figure out a solution to this same problem as the OP. I’m currently using a DBW TB, but I can make the switch to cable, if it’s the only way to make it work.

Thanks for any guidance.

Cable operated TB. FAST/Accufab 4150 (4x44mm) comes with morse ball and F&B 2x58mm can be optioned for a morse ball. Single blade I am still working on, but i'm told that if you can get through to Accufab or Holley tech support, that it's possible to have a morse ball linkage made for their 90-105mm TB's. Worse case, there are 10" cable-wrap to 10-24 morse stud adapters made. But I hate cable-wrap TB's because you can't use a toe hook if it hangs open- it will just push the cable off the guide rather than push the blade closed.

A blade stop will not work with EFI for same reason it won't work with Enderle/Rons injection. You can restrict the airflow all you want, but the barrel valve or ECU TPS will still see WOT and be dumping fuel in.

Just for my 2¢ , I agree (especially in my case of being on the heavy side for factory interior; essentially super stock trim) that coming on the stop in high gear will control wheel speed but lose MPH and possible consistency from the motor lugging from basically a 20-30 MPH roll in high gear. On the other hand, coming off the stop in low gear may yield a traction limited situation depending on how the boost curve comes in.

I'd like to think that even at 9" wide, a 30" tire with a powerglide and 3.89 gear would be pretty damn hard to spin coming off the stop in low gear. But again, depends on the boost curve.

[C5 Pete]

Thanks for the reply. Like you, I’m looking at how to adapt a rod to the single blade TB. I could use a 4150 and an elbow, but I’d prefer not.

And as for forcing the blade closed if it hangs open, I have an interior battery cutoff that will kill everything mounted to my shifter.

[DailyDriverSst]

Originally Posted by C5 Pete

Thanks for the reply. Like you, I’m looking at how to adapt a rod to the single blade TB. I could use a 4150 and an elbow, but I’d prefer not.

And as for forcing the blade closed if it hangs open, I have an interior battery cutoff that will kill everything mounted to my shifter.

I would like to see somebody do an A/B test on a known good intake manifold, pulling through a 4150 with nothing on it, then with a hat/elbow on it, then with a 4150 elbow and single blade TB.

These are the adapters i've found.

https://www.kartek.com/parts/push-pu...-body-cam.html

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/cabletb.html

[B1Ken]

For what it's worth, I used a Ron's Terminator on the stop for ONE RUN. I got gassed out by the Methanol, so I put the carburetor with gasoline back on. I ran the Terminator on the stop with a solenoid bleed actuated by the throttle timer, through a 90 pill at 3500 rpm. Worked fine

[DailyDriverSst]

Originally Posted by B1Ken

For what it's worth, I used a Ron's Terminator on the stop for ONE RUN. I got gassed out by the Methanol, so I put the carburetor with gasoline back on. I ran the Terminator on the stop with a solenoid bleed actuated by the throttle timer, through a 90 pill at 3500 rpm. Worked fine

The terminator isn't bad on the stop. The Toilet Bowl is what has throttle tip-in and CFM issues with a stop. Info from somebody with that setup would be great

[Lenny5160]

Originally Posted by Tom Goldman

With a small tire like that , shift on the stop . less likely to spin and you will get more MPH

Not saying that I disagree that he should shift on the stop, but I don't agree that it will result in more MPH.

I'm NA, but in both my S/ST and SC car I come off the stop in Low and shift downtrack on RPM. I lose little to no MPH doing this, and especially in SC I will out-MPH cars that have 200+ more horsepower than I do. It takes a lot of power and time to get the car moving in High gear.

Again, if I had a supercharged small tire car I'd be shifting on the stop, but it will cost you some MPH.