Thoughts on Moroso Trick Springs (Foxbody)

[Mike Graham]

Originally Posted by HawkBrosMav

Can someone explain the reasoning behind the 4 cylinder spring working? Seems like it would have the opposite effect of the Moroso spring. Unless I’m thinking backwards if you compare the 3 springs of choice here the Moroso would be the stiffest, followed by the GT, then the 4 cylinder. If the idea is the the Moroso has more stored energy which helps the car transfer weight better why would the 4 cylinder then be a better choice than the GT spring? Wouldn’t it have the least amount of stored energy?

I’m not trying to be a hard *** or come across as not appreciative of the info and responses! I think i’ve given up on the Moroso spring entirely at this point, sounds like a lot of work and a waste of money from the experiences of everyone. Now I’m just asking questions for the education if you guys don’t mind. Thanks!!

Brad
You want the longest/lowest rate spring that you can get in the front of the car. Try not to cut the spring as this raises the spring rate. The longer spring pushes the front end up through more of the travel (storing more energy). This also helps when the car settles back down. It is less violent coming down and shocks the chassis less.

[Mark Yacavone]

Brad, You're correct in that the 4 cyl. spring wouldn't have as much stored energy as the Moroso.
They do allow the front to sit lower , for more weight transfer.
I had them in a street 5.0. and you could feel the front rise, even with a tight converter.
You'd probably want at least a 3-way shock, set on 90/10 at first.

[HawkBrosMav]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Brad, You're correct in that the 4 cyl. spring wouldn't have as much stored energy as the Moroso.
They do allow the front to sit lower , for more weight transfer.
I had them in a street 5.0. and you could feel the front rise, even with a tight converter.
You'd probably want at least a 3-way shock, set on 90/10 at first.

We've had the 10 way Strange on all 4 corners since we put the car together. Honestly don't know where they're set right this second, it's been a while since we messed with chassis stuff.

[Ed Wright]

I made the mistake of cutting my first set of Moroso springs to get the ride hight I wanted. They settle to a lower ride hight from just sitting there, even more from a long ride, tied down in the trailer. I put them in in Jan. Hauled it to Pomona, front was too low when I unloaded at Pomona. Over all, it was tied down in the trailer about a week. Hadvto buy another pair of springs when I got home. Put them in, like they came out of the box. Before our first Div race came around, ride hight was fine. Aligned it & went racing. Best springs I had used at the time. Longer coils, wound from smaller wire, stores more energy.
Any from coils will settle after a while. Smaller wire coils settle more.

Softer rear springs hook better than stiff springs. They all settle. I pick my car up on my 2 post lift to unload my springs between races to extend their life, and maintain chassis settings.

[HawkBrosMav]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

I made the mistake of cutting my first set of Moroso springs to get the ride hight I wanted. They settle to a lower ride hight from just sitting there, even more from a long ride, tied down in thevtrailer. I put them in in Jan. Hauled it to Pomona, front was too low when I unloaded at Pomona. Over all, it was tied down in the trailer about a week. Hadvto buy another pair of springs when I got home. Put them in, like they came out of the box. Before our first Div race came around, ride hight was fine. Aligned it & went racing. Best springs I had used at the time. Longer coils, wound from smaller wire, stores more energy.
Any from coils will settle after a while. Smaller wire coils settle more.

Softer rear springs hook better than stiff springs. They all settle. I pick my car up on my 2 post lift to unload my springs between races to extend their life, and maintain chassis settings.

Ed, what is the logic behind a softer spring in the rear? And how would running a airbag in the rear (we don't as of now) negate or help the softer spring?

[Lenny5160]

In the rear, you want the lightest springs that will hold the car up. That will allow your shock to control the movement and actually 'do something' when you change the settings.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by Lenny5160

In the rear, you want the lightest springs that will hold the car up. That will allow your shock to control the movement and actually 'do something' when you change the settings.

Yes, I'd agree, in an ideal world.
However, we're working in the confines of NHRA Stock Eliminator here.

[HawkBrosMav]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Yes, I'd agree, in an ideal world.
However, we're working in the confines of NHRA Stock Eliminator here.

So would you both agree that a air bag in the rear spring is a crutch for a poor shock adjustment? Or a shock that doesn't have enough range? Or is it just a travel limiter?

[Lenny5160]

Mark makes a good point; you can't just adjust the 4-link on that thing so there may be a need to create some other methods to get what you want.

I'm not the guy to ask since my door car has leaf springs and a 4-link dragster doesn't present much of a tuning challenge.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by HawkBrosMav

So would you both agree that a air bag in the rear spring is a crutch for a poor shock adjustment? Or a shock that doesn't have enough range? Or is it just a travel limiter?

How about another "or" ?

That suspension really doesn't offer any separation to plant the tires, seeing that the instant center is somewhere out in front of the grille. Easiest change is to move the upper arm pivot up on the rear end. I made my own deal for the turbo car, but Jegs sells a kits that will accomplish it also. This way , you won't need so much of a pre-load setup.
The diagonal four arm suspension creates all kinds of weird dynamics for drag racing.
The pre-loaded Air Lift bags are just one way to get it somewhat under control.