Front tire pressure adjustments

[jmcarter]

I’ve generally just lowered the RPM to slow RT, doesn’t seem to affect ET as much plus you can adjust that or not “on the fly” if you see everyone spinning like crazy or you’ve just packed in 50 pounds of lead. You can add some shock extension too and of course what Hacksaw said but probably don’t have much room on a late Camaro. Assume you’ve verified the car isn’t periodically pulling straight up out of the beam?

[Kdw1403]

I have 28 inch tall tire on it. Car went 1.33 60 ft this past weekend. Just didn’t know what other B/SA cars run for tire pressure. I run radials on rear.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Kdw1403

I have 28 inch tall tire on it. Car went 1.33 60 ft this past weekend. Just didn’t know what other B/SA cars run for tire pressure. I run radials on rear.

Blocking, or bias slicks should help.

[Kdw1403]

Blocking? Are you talking about some sort of a blinder? If so , I really don’t know how to do that. I have seen and heard of people doing that. Are they blocking out the top 2 bulbs ? Do you then use the bottom bulb like a pro tree? What kind of device do you use to block out the top 2 bulbs? I also do not use a 2 step. I just lean on the converter. My 2step button is on my brake pedal. I have always been afraid I would hit the button and activate my 2 step at the finish line. Do you set the low side 2 step low enough where your brakes can safely hold the can without pushing it out of the beams. ?

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by Kdw1403

Blocking? Are you talking about some sort of a blinder? If so , I really don’t know how to do that. I have seen and heard of people doing that. Are they blocking out the top 2 bulbs ? Do you then use the bottom bulb like a pro tree? What kind of device do you use to block out the top 2 bulbs? I also do not use a 2 step. I just lean on the converter. My 2step button is on my brake pedal. I have always been afraid I would hit the button and activate my 2 step at the finish line. Do you set the low side 2 step low enough where your brakes can safely hold the can without pushing it out of the beams. ?

Okay, if you're not blocking or blinding, let's leave that for another day.
Now, by your own description, you're swinging across .000 by about 35 thou.
So let's say you slow your vehicle reaction down .035. Your - .020 now becomes a +.015
Great.
But what happens when you hit what used to be a +.015? It now becomes a + .050.
Not going to win too many that way either.
My friend, I think you need to work on something other than the car right now.
Just my opinion. I don't consider myself to be a bracket racer. I did win a couple of track championships, but I think I'll let the experts take it from here.
Later ,we can get back to the technical items.

[Kdw1403]

Yes mark you are correct in determining that my slower lights would be less than stellar. I would rather have more ‘50’ lights and less red lights. Most people would rather have a 50 light than a red light. Most people are not as consistent as you on the tree. We all wish we were but we are not, at least I’m not.i I can read between your lines and I will continue to work on my driving as hard as I can. Hopefully I can get my cars reaction time to go along with my ‘human’ reaction time and get a win one day. Thanks mark.

[wagonboy]

KD,

I would highly recommend using your 2 step. If you can lower the launch rpm that would be a great help to you. Also, I would it would be more consistent leaving at the same RPM each time. The converter can move a little with air changes and trans temps.

Hook up a micro switch that will only allow the 2 step to be activated in low gear. I have mine on my shifter.

Good luck out there and keep trying, it will come.

Ryan

[Mike Gray]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Okay, if you're not blocking or blinding, let's leave that for another day.
Now, by your own description, you're swinging across .000 by about 35 thou.
So let's say you slow your vehicle reaction down .035. Your - .020 now becomes a +.015
Great.
But what happens when you hit what used to be a +.015? It now becomes a + .050.
Not going to win too many that way either.
My friend, I think you need to work on something other than the car right now.
Just my opinion. I don't consider myself to be a bracket racer. I did win a couple of track championships, but I think I'll let the experts take it from here.
Later ,we can get back to the technical items.

Good advise here. Your car if set up the same each run is going to react in just about the same amount of time each run, the variable is the driver. I worked my super gas car down to decent repeatable lights on a Pro tree. I then ran it in super street and was consistently early. (I needed to adjust the car to the slower light) That was accomplished with making changes to the car. Then I went and ran some full tree classes and I was all over the place. The car was still the same and I knew it could cut decent lights on either Pro tree. The difference in the full tree races was squarely with the driver, me. I needed to find a way for the driver to be better at reacting to the full tree, blocking or leaving on the top bulb are some of the ways to accomplish that.

[Kdw1403]

Blocking? Are you talking about some sort of a blinder? If so , I really don’t know how to do that. I have seen and heard of people doing that. Are they blocking out the top 2 bulbs ? Do you then use the bottom bulb like a pro tree? What kind of device do you use to block out the top 2 bulbs? I also do not use a 2 step. I just lean on the converter. My 2step button is on my brake pedal. I have always been afraid I would hit the button and activate my 2 step at the finish line. Do you set the low side 2 step low enough where your brakes can safely hold the car without pushing it out of the beams. ?