Wheel Studs

Myron Piatek · 06-29-2018, 05:14 PM

Make sure that the lug nut shank isn't too long and bottoming out. Everything I've had has the shank about 1/8" shorter than the wheel center is thick. Gotta be careful with press-in studs that may have a slight "shoulder" sticking out.

Lug nut shank diameters can also vary. It surprised me when doing some searches on Summit's site. A little too small can be just enough to pound the stud to the breaking point.

Make sure the holes in your wheels aren't worn or ovaled.

I've been using 1/2" Moser studs on my CM for 18+ years without breakage. Axles assemblies were changed twice over the years and were still good. Just upgraded to lighter axles. The original axles I had didn't have the Moser decal, but had M/E welded into the register.

06-29-2018, 05:14 PM	#1
Myron Piatek VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Florida Posts: 1,542 Likes: 34 Liked 138 Times in 51 Posts	Re: Wheel Studs Make sure that the lug nut shank isn't too long and bottoming out. Everything I've had has the shank about 1/8" shorter than the wheel center is thick. Gotta be careful with press-in studs that may have a slight "shoulder" sticking out. Lug nut shank diameters can also vary. It surprised me when doing some searches on Summit's site. A little too small can be just enough to pound the stud to the breaking point. Make sure the holes in your wheels aren't worn or ovaled. I've been using 1/2" Moser studs on my CM for 18+ years without breakage. Axles assemblies were changed twice over the years and were still good. Just upgraded to lighter axles. The original axles I had didn't have the Moser decal, but had M/E welded into the register. __________________ LOCOMOTION Racing Last edited by Myron Piatek; 06-29-2018 at 05:23 PM.

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