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#11 |
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How about steel flat bars as an option? Two 1/2" threaded rods mounted and stack up multiple pieces as needed.
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#12 |
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#13 |
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#14 |
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A friend who runs a 390 Mustang did this. Just bolted on steel plates until he had enough weight to move out of the cars natural class that he shared with Brad Burton.
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#15 | |
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But one needs a weight box for the ability to fine tune. Look at the scale variation that occurred last week.
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#16 |
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Have to disagree here. No welding required unless it's mounted as permanent ballast. As removable ballast, plain nuts to secure are fine. Iv'e used 10 lb bars to fine tune quite easily.
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#17 | |
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The way I remember it, weight attached to frame is considered permanent i.e. welded. Removable weight goes in the box. Now, just because you've been doing it your way, doesn't mean a whole helluva lot as of late. ;-)
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#18 |
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Just checked with a preeminent NHRA tech man.
Nuts have to be tack welded on ballast attached to the frame.
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#19 |
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My rule book says: Removable weight must be securely mounted to the frame or frame structure by a minimum of two 1/2" diameter steel bolts per 100 lbs, or one 3/8" steel bolt per 5 lbs, all other weight bars, pucks, etc. must use 1/2" diameter SAE grade 8 bolts for attachment. Every Comp car or Pro Stocker has multiple places to bolt weight in and the nut has no weld.
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#20 |
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if you really want to be safe use double nuts or NYLOK nuts on each bolt/stud where you are using removable weights--- you can also use bolts with a hole drilled in it and put a spacer(few washers) run the nut down tight then put a hairpin clip(cotter pin) thru the hole to keep the nut from backing off--REALLY -If you follow NHRA guidelines and use the required bolts etc. you should be OK do not understand why they do/would not accept that method ------weight boxes are for "loose"" ballast like bags of lead shot, loose lead bars etc.iron pieces--.not something that is "securely" fastened down
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