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That type suspension is one of the easiest to raise the rear of the uppers on .
You need some flat stock , a few extra short bolts, and a welder..and. oh yes , the ability to use it properly. I don't think I'd go up 2, 1/2 inches though. Solid lower bushings help those cars immensely . There is very little binding, with the uppers running straight ahead.
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thanks for responses and ideas. Yes, unfortunately Southside Machine does not make the lower bars for our 65-70 b-body cars anymore. Thats why I started looking at lengthening the upper control arm rear mounts help make the needed change to the I/C. Dan Fahey- if you still have the bracket or a drawing you designed I would love to see it. 2" -2.5" is about right for setting that upper control arm at parallel. Also, I have do have brackets welded in support the upper control arm mounting frame cross-brace.
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#3 |
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A lot depends on what height springs you're using and what size tire and rim size you're stuffing under there. I've tried wagon springs.That will change the geometry somewhat.
Don't forget to gusset the lower arm front bracket. They'll tear off the frame too. ;-)
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I tore the lower arm front bracket on my 65' Bel Air with a 230 and a 3-speed!.
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66cayne,
Take the guesswork out of your change and use this spreadsheet. It explains how to make 8 simple measurements, then enter the numbers into the spreadsheet. The spreadsheet calculates the instant center and several other setup numbers. We used it to get the rear suspension set up properly on our 81 Malibu. It helps you get it right the first time without guessing. Good luck. http://www.patooyee.com/calculators/4BarLinkV3.0c.xls
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#8 | |
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Put the car on jackstands, take off the rear wheels, and measure. Open the spreadsheet and hover your mouse over the X, Y, and Z data entry cells. It will display a description of the measurement needed such as "height from ground" or "forward from rear axle center line." Enter the numbers in the appropriate cell and you will see a graphical depiction of your rear suspension with a top view and side view. It should be obvious from the plot if your numbers represent your suspension geometry. You can then modify mounting point locations to see how the change affects instant center and other dimensions. Before using this spreadsheet we wondered why our car (and others) squat on acceleration. The spreadsheet showed us the stock instant center was behind the rear bumper. Of course the final test is to run the car and see how it works at the track. We made a couple of adjustments and quickly found the sweet spot where the car really worked well. Good luck.
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cant get the link for the suspension to work,, in the same boat as OP,
cant really get the tires to hit hard fighting traction, would like to see a pic of the original southside bars and a pic of raising the mounting points for upper control arms, |
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