Electric Water Pump damage

[Dissident]

Mr. Smith and others,


IF the surface we are looking at in the pic is aluminum (ie: non-ferrous), the problem is specifically from natural electrical action to corrode the material. IF that is the case, the original surface should have been anodized so as to decrease the action but would be better to use a sacrificial anode in the cooling system as well. IF originally anodized, any scratch through the finish accelerates the problem. IF the surface is supposed to be ferrous, it is surprising that it shows no ferrous oxide (rust) residue. So, it appears to be non-ferrous.



Either way, there are no negatives to use a sacrificial anode in the cooling system. Those type anodes are available at any hardware store or at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.


Regards to All that like this kind of stuff,
HB2
Dissident

[Lyn Smith]

Thanks for the info everyone. Someone please post a picture of a anode.I know if I go into the H ware store and ask the lady for a anode, I will get that funny look.LOL

[gsa612]

Lyn,here's one from Champion rad it screws into the water drain.Summit also sells them. gsa612

[Bob Mulry]

Originally Posted by gsa612

Lyn,here's one from Champion rad it screws into the water drain.Summit also sells them. gsa612

To protect aluminum the anode has to be more active than the aluminum, which would be a magnesium anode.

To protect iron you can use zinc as an anode.

To protect copper and brass, an aluminum anode will work,

[340Cuda]

Originally Posted by Bob Mulry

To protect aluminum the anode has to be more active than the aluminum, which would be a magnesium anode.

To protect iron you can use zinc as an anode.

To protect copper and brass, an aluminum anode will work,

So with a iron block with aluminum heads and water pump I would want one magnesium anode and one zinc anode?

Thanks,
Bill

[Dave Sheehan]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060/overview/

[Bob Mulry]

Originally Posted by Dave Sheehan

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060/overview/

That won't work..

He needs magnesium..

[Dragsinger]

Another thing to consider, in some cases a rubber-mounted radiator with an electric fan attached to the radiator core needs a ground wire from the radiator core to chassis ground.

[Mike Pearson]

Looks like the pump has not been sealed well to the engine or cover and water has bee getting between the pump housing and the gasket causing the corrosion issue. I run what ever water I can find from home or the track and drain my system every day at the track and never leave water in the system when the car is stored between races. I usually leave the radiator cap off when the radiator is empty. My water pump is at least 25 years old and still working. Maybe try coating the gasket with some better sealer when the engine is assembled as the corrosion seems to be in the gasket area and not in the are where the Impeller is located

[Lyn Smith]

Thanks for all the info. My radiator is copper/brass. I will try the radiator ground,and the anode. It is also damaging my aluminum timing cover,and thermostat housing.