Chiller recommendation.

[Rick Schilling]

You probably should still get some input from someone on the tune up as well. You don't want to run the car stone cold, but I know of at least one instance of "overcooling" that caused a fuel injected car to slow in a very critical race.

[Keith 944]

Originally Posted by Rick Schilling

You probably should still get some input from someone on the tune up as well. You don't want to run the car stone cold, but I know of at least one instance of "overcooling" that caused a fuel injected car to slow in a very critical race.

Was wandering the same. Has anyone had this backfire like a bog or slow down from being too cold?

[Sean Marconette]

Depending on what EFI system and what it is looking at to make tuning decisions, colder can definitely be a big problem. Any modifier that is adding fuel based on water or air temp could make it too rich or lean. Open vs closed loop and how much you allow it to add/remove fuel. As long as you are you willing to adjust the tuneup and these parameters it could make a difference.

Sean

[MR DERBY CITY]

Originally Posted by Rick Schilling

You probably should still get some input from someone on the tune up as well. You don't want to run the car stone cold, but I know of at least one instance of "overcooling" that caused a fuel injected car to slow in a very critical race.

A CHILLER was instrumental in a racer LOSING a heads up final in stock at INDY a few years ago.....it was EFI , but you can get a carb car TOO cold also.....

[Lenny5160]

I'm not sure if it was hyperbole, but I heard somewhere (pretty sure it was Luke and Jed's podcast) that A-Dub's water was 40-something degrees for the Indy final this year.

[Ed Wright]

I know that I’m old, and don’t know everything, but my FAST XFI LT1 EFI car is faster at 50 degrees, than when warm. Money spent for track rental testing was involved. Likes different timing and air/fuel tuning when that cold. Carbureted cars would likely gain the most with different jets. Or, a “heads up” carb jetted for it.
I have not had a car that was not faster cold.
FAST XFI has coolant temp correction tables/capabilities you can dial in for using the “chiller”.
Don’t have to touch a thing if you dialed those parameters in during testing. Just chill it & run it. Worth well over a tenth.

[FED 387]

KDW 1403 check your PM

[Rick Schilling]

[QUOTE=MR DERBY CITY;598449]A CHILLER was instrumental in a racer LOSING a heads up final in stock at INDY a few years ago.....

That's the one.

[Alan Nyhus]

You don't have to ice the bejeezus out of things to get the benefit of a chiller. Just recirculating 'room temp' water will give a nice increase in performance. I carry three 5 gallon water jugs in the trailer just for this.

As to how cold you can get things...it depends on the car. Generally, a carb'd stick car is going to have more latitude than a carb'd automatic.

I've built quite a few of these. For those wanting to do their own, make sure and pay attention to the size of the hose, fittings, etc. for good flow while keeping the pressure within limits. Many of the 110 volt pumps being used have flow rates too high to be effective at pulling heat out. And pressures well beyond what should be used.

Like anything, do your homework. -Al

[jmcarter]

Was reviewing the available pumps yesterday and there are so many options and it's been too many years since I studied flow dynamics and such, is there a particular GPH flow rate that works best for pulling heat out of the motor? The CR-UC-BPCO17B check valve seems to be the most expensive component to buy, anyone have a good source?

Appreciate the help.