Strange B3360 Master Cylinder Push Rod

[OkieRocket]

I recently purchased a Strange B3360 Master Cylinder Kit to "retrofit" into my 1970 Olds 442 Drag Car. I am replacing the OEM Cast Iron Manual Disc Brake Master Cylinder. I am finding that the "Push Rod" supplied in the Kit from Strange is approx. 1" - 2" too short. Strange does not offer any optional Push Rods and I can't find anyone in the Parts aftermarket that can tell me which Push Rod to use.
I've seen all kinds of basic "fixes" on the internet in chat rooms, etc., saying to simply.... "Cut" a grade 8 bolt to length and "grind off" the end to a ball".....or just "use some 3/8-24 all-thread rod," etc..... I know you guys in this forum are true, serious Racers that know your stuff and I am afraid of simply "grinding off a bolt" or doing a "cheesy" fix to the issue and want to do this the right way...mainly for safety reasons.
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Harold

[Eman]

I used a Mopar style MC on my 3rd Gen Camaro. It wasn't bought from Strange but I don't think there is much difference. I had to make a rod to work properly. Jegs sells a rod kit with a clevis that you can make work. They also sell a boot for the rear of the master cyliner where the rod goes to use as a guide. One thing that is very important is to be sure there is no possible way the rod can be pulled out of the rear of the MC and drop. I removed my whole pedal quadrant and mocked it up on the bench. Then I welded in a flat piece of steel with a hole drilled in it as a guide for the rod. Also made sure I had a very positive pedal stop to prevent pulling the pedal back too far. There have been racers that have overlooked these items. Somehow their foot hooked under the pedal and when they pulled it out they dislodged the rod resulting in no brakes.

[Dragsinger]

Eman has a good suggestion in ref to removing the pedal assemble and getting on the bench where you can fab up as needed to address the potential problems as he explained.

It is a serious safety issue so please be careful.

[GallopinGhost]

I used an adjustable push rod with that MC
https://www.doctordiff.com/62-70-adj...-push-rod.html

[Tom Goldman]

This part from Jerry Bickel Race cars is simple and inexpensive .
I use it on all my builds.
Part number JBRC1064 $69.00

[OkieRocket]

Thanks for all of the great ideas guys! I really appreciate the help.
Harold

[CMcAllister]

Originally Posted by Tom Goldman

This part from Jerry Bickel Race cars is simple and inexpensive .
I use it on all my builds.
Part number JBRC1064 $69.00

I have made the cup and welded a stop on the pushrod to function like this unit, but for the price and quality of this assembly, it's an easy decision to just use this piece. A positive pedal stop will provide an extra margin of safety.

I've seen a number of cars torn up and people hurt as a result of inattention to this.

[Tom Goldman]

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

I have made the cup and welded a stop on the pushrod to function like this unit, but for the price and quality of this assembly, it's an easy decision to just use this piece. A positive pedal stop will provide an extra margin of safety.

I've seen a number of cars torn up and people hurt as a result of inattention to this.

It's one of the first things I look at when a car comes into the shop for work , especially older race cars .
And its not just Stock /SuperStock cars ,A lot of Bracket and Super class cars are also lacking adequate push rod retention.

[OkieRocket]

Great info. Guys!

Thank you!

[Rod Greene]

This is what happens when the pushrod comes out