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#1 |
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my experience has been that if you don't do what the fast guys are doing your not going to be nearly as fast. The rules are pretty gray as to what you can do to the heads and intake. No grind marks and rite cc in the runners your good to go.Unless you run into Westly or Wayne then you mite have a problem, of course the cost of the heads ,manifold is now in the 5500 dollar range. Then there are some combo that are still soft,You just need to pick the rite one and get your check book out. Or be prepared for a uphill battle, ask anyone who has been doing it for many years.
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#2 | |
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What STK combo(s) are the heads and manifold $5500? I am assuming at that cost they are built up and installed, correct?
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#3 |
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The big issue is with Super Stock cylinder heads were rules have been more open than Stock Eliminator cylinder heads.
The fact that intake adapters and spacer were prohibited in Super Stock when welded, epoxied and sheet metal intake manifolds are allowed did not make any sense. As regards to the high cost of competitive Stock Eliminator heads and intake manifolds, you are paying for the knowledge and hard work of those that build them and the cost is for a set of heads and intake ready for use. |
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#4 |
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A very well done set of SBC Stock Eliminator heads that perform and pass tech are easily $4,500. An intake done to match can be $1000-1500. -Al
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#5 |
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Think about the core issues of this discussion. Stock? What?
Last edited by Frank Castros; 04-15-2020 at 11:20 AM. |
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#6 | |
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And the question was asked by Andy:
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#7 |
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One of the reasons for the cost, besides its for the price that horsepower comes with, is that it is very labor intensive work. You almost can't charge for what its worth because of the expense of doing it. A set of heads is as much work as doing the rest of the bottom half of the engine. If a bottom end failure does in the short block, cam, pan and related items, that's pretty seriously bad enough. When one or both heads gets hurt, that adds to it or doubles the equation, in both dollar value of pieces, but in time spent above and beyond that. Also, like everything else that is cast iron, variations in castings from the foundry onward, will result in a part being just OK, a Better part or a Good part. One out of every 10 or 20 might be an Excellent casting, which means its better to start with. Before all the incredible head work and intake work came into being, racers used to flow bench test sometimes 20 heads, and kept track of the variables. Out of the 20, enough variations were obvious in that two heads were over and above the rest of them, those became the best performing pair of the bunch, justifying the further money that was going to be spent on them. The rest probably wound up in the ads somewhere. The newest technology applied to heads tends to result in more heads being acceptable,since the necessary work will tend to equalize them with the top of the line head a little more. Variations in castings can even be traced to foundry data and date codes and that sort of thing. Lots of builders know what further numbers on a given set of heads to look for, all 041's or 462's or 290's aren't always equal. Cylinder heads are a whole art form in engine building that takes this sport to an unforeseen level.
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#8 | |
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Thanks for editing your original post to clarify. Makes more sense to me, now. ![]()
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#9 | |
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WOWSER!!! STK Racers are truly a rare breed then. I can go low 11's for maybe that much on a whole SBC Chevy bracket engine in my Dad's 69 Chevelle, or I can spend that much on just the heads and intake to go maybe a little faster, but NHRA STK legal. I know it's not about the ET ROI in STK, but doing it within a tight window of specs that is the fun. I would like to run the Chevelle in I/S someday, bucket list... The level of competition being what it is today, and guys that want to win Class at Indy, for example; Does having to pay other people to do a lot of the rollcage, suspension build and tuning, trans build and tuning, engine build, tweaking, massaging etc, does it still feel the same when you go fast? I am NOT trying to start a fight either or offend. I just can't relate as I don't have that kind of checkbook and I am a weirdo in my own right. I would personally rather be near the bottom of a qual list, after a few or more DNQ's, but made the field doing as much as physically possible on my own, then win class buying speed parts/services or a known fast car. (if I somehow magically won the lottery or something, and I do try regularly!!)
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#10 | |
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And if that means you're not the killer azz kicker in your class, so be it. You can be a player by watching the qualifying sheets and being careful. And if you get a heads-up at some point...hey, the fast guy still has to run the race and turn on the win light first. Lots of things can, and do, happen. Don't let not wanting to spend a fortune deter you from getting into Stock or Super Stock. It's a lot of fun, believe me! ![]()
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