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#1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 227
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This is the best advise you will ever get about getting into stock or super stock. Buy a vehicle that is already a race car. I am certain many people will co-sign with me on this. Cheaper, a lot less frustrating and in end a hell of a lot more fun. Buy what you can afford, learn, upgrade as you can.
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#2 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Derby City, USA
Posts: 3,653
Likes: 1,088
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boulder City, Nevada 89005
Posts: 2,737
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There are a dozen 360 combos that are good
in the Ram trucks. I have run 1.5+ under with them on a budget. The 318 combo are few and not very good. It is better in a F body Mopar. I do have a 360 Combo Truck N/SA for $9,500 turnkey or $7,000 rolling that is finished.
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John Irving 741 Stock 741 Super Stock |
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#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bradenton FL
Posts: 203
Likes: 2,231
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Good luck with what ever you choose and hope to see you at the races soon.
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Brian Stk B200 |
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#5 | |
Senior Member
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Jared Jordan 9 B/SA 2024 Jeg's D7 All Star - Stock |
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#6 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Glendora,Calif.
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 172
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I second that statement exactly. Even if you just got done building a stocker, it takes several months or a year to sort it out, get the hang of driving it, and start winning rounds. Yes the Irvings would help you and get you there sooner.
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Verrry South Jersey
Posts: 537
Likes: 134
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With a "built" vehicle, you can get right into testing, tuning, experimenting. That's what Stock is all about.
Used to be, you bought a used street vehicle and made it a race car. Now, it's classic car stock racing. To build from scratch, you'll either have to spend considerable bucs just to get a nice original vehicle, or spend considerable bucs to make a dog nice enough to THEN spend modifying it. Heck, now days, just a paint job can cost more than what it used to cost to buy and build a competitive car. (depending on class, a bit) Geez, I'm talking myself into an already done car! But I'm a recovering addict and wwwwwwill not ggggget into it aaaaaaagain.... |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Div. 6, Eastern, WA
Posts: 710
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Well I guess I will go against the grain. I have 2 LOWER class cars that I've assembled myself. My "N" car has only run .45 Over. My "EF" car has already run .51 under. Part of this Stock deal is picking a good combo. I like the technical part of this and seeing what works and what doesn't. Which probably goes against what my wallet can afford.? But to me , this way is more gratifying.
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Dave Noll, EF/S ,?/SA 6526 |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 605
Likes: 1,457
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 152
Likes: 377
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Although it's not a Stock Eliminator car, you might find this interesting:
Recently, I quickly added up the invoices for suspension, steering, wheels, tires and brakes on my Nova street machine. I'm a Canadian, but all of the prices were in US dollars, without shipping or taxes. The total was north of $9250 and that doesn't include the rear end assembly. That's for a leaf spring car that is similar to a stocker. There's one caveat: I did use Detroit Speed upper and lower a-arms ($1400 or so), but if it was a stock eliminator car, I still would have had bushings, ball joints and mods to install the shocks to deal with. What I'm getting at is you can end up with a lot of $$$ in what seems like a simple rebuild, if you decide to use good quality parts. Just food for thought.... Last edited by Wayne Scraba; 07-12-2020 at 01:35 PM. |
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