Tech west / 7AL2 problem

[Rob Petrie E395]

Originally Posted by Adger Smith

What does the battery voltage do when it blubbers?
Plates in the battery shorting or a bag ground?

I checked grounds. Actually completely rewired the car at one point. It’s had a optima red top. But now that you say that. I’m not sure the battery has been switched. I know it’ll do it with the alternator on or off. Pretty sure voltage is steady. But I’ll look at that first thing if it still does it after msd box change. I’ve got a digital gauge in the car. So that’ll be easy. It’s never not restarted. But it is very frustrating and frankly embarrassing. Made my primary living for over 30 years as a mechanic and I built this thing. And I haven’t found the problem in years of trying. It’s honestly why I’ve never mentioned it before now.

[Adger Smith]

Rob,
I had a water pump putting out RFI that caused mine to have a high RPM miss fire. The miss showed up when I had the pump fail and I put on a spare that I was carrying. Turned the pump off during a run and the miss quit. These electrical gremlins can be tough to find and fix. Good luck.

[GTX JOHN]

My boy uses them and I do not on identical Stockers.
I have never seen a performance gain either way back
and forth from their box.

Search their feedback on here and elsewhere.

[Signman]

The advantage to what TechWest does is faster switching giving more multiple spark at low RPM and at a higher RPM than a stock MSD. If you can add more fuel you will improve.

The basics I was taught were an engine will use as much ignition voltage/amperage as it needs, you really can't have too much ignition but you can not have enough. The truth is we are not making the cylinder pressure to require a 7 series MSD most of us are fine with a 6 series.

There are probably as many racers who have had a good experience with TechWest as bad. Hopefully they will make things right for those at a loss.

[Rob Petrie E395]

I think I finally found my problem. I bought a tech west box from another racer. We switched it out yesterday. There is definitely something wrong with my box. Even though MSD says it’s fine. On top of just totally acting up at times. When the car was cold it didn’t exactly idle great below 13-1500 rpms. And in the winter of for some reason I needed to start it and the car was cold. You had to feed it some throttle to keep it going. I figured it was mostly my tune up. But have never iced the car at the track. And I usually want it about 130° at the beginning of a run. So it’s never been a problem really. We’ll it was 38° in the shop yesterday. And it’ll fire right up now. We started it and shut it off hot, cold, got it hot and filled it off. Probably started it 30 times yesterday and 15-20 today. It’s fine and you can literally tell it idles better. So we switched it back again today. And you can tell something is going on. Not saying Pats work cured it. But if you have a suspect MSD box. Not sure I’d send it to MSD to be checked. I’m going to send this box to Tech West and let him test it. But after several years. I think I found my electrical problem FINALLY. Now I just gotta get me fixed so I can go racing again.