BBC starter problems

[Jeff Stout]

Originally Posted by Mike Graham

This starter has the bolts straight across. The block has three holes,but only the 2 straight across are taped. If I had a 153 tooth starter and a 168 tooth flexplate would the starter work?

No. The nose on the starter is in a different location. But you stated you used the paperclip for spacing then it tells me they are a match.

[Terry Cain]

Have somewhat of same problem, (sorta). Been through 3 flex plates in 2 seasons. Just wears teeth out. We've shimmed, checked, rechecked and come to conclusion that cheap flex plates and material coming from Chun wo ho. . BBC also, 168T.

[Tom Goldman]

Do you have a aftermarket crankshaft ?
Some aftermarket cranks have a thicker crank flange which moves the flexplate closer to the starter drive which can prevent the starter drive from spinning out and engaging properly.
Most aftermarket starters come with a pair of shims which move the drive away from the flexplate.

[Jim Kaekel]

Something else I would check is the run-out of the flexplate using a dial indicator.

[prostockpete1]

if a lot of run out i,ve seen guys just give a good wack with big hammer to realign .. thrust bearing will handle it

[Rich Biebel]

Stock GM starters were often a horror show to make work without the problems you have.

Been there a million times in my mechanic days

I tried everything including using a rat tail file in the starter mounting holes to move starter closer or farther away from the block.

Tried different starters with various noses....rebuilds usually. There were some different noses, some even were cast iron noses and manual trans might be different than an auto flexplate

There is no easy answer.

Even the aftermarket gear reduction starters can do it but shimming usually fixes it.

[Adger Smith]

The right cast iron nose has helped with problems on a few BBC's that have come through the shop. The flywheel run out rears it's head, esp when I have a warped one on the balance. Not a good thing for balance.. I've thrown away a few that had the ring welded on elliptical. Good luck hunting down the issue.

[dragracerray]

I assume your starter bearings and starter drive are healthy. I remember a BBC block my brother and I had that did the same thing. We machined the mating surface of the starter. Not sure it solved the problem but it was much better. Don't remember how much we removed but if you go to far you can always shim back. Maybe try it with a nosepiece you don't care about (ie not a cast iron nosepiece). If you find this is the problem machine the block next time it is out so you can use any unmachined starter. Can you use a start retard device? Good luck, Ray

[outlaw]

I used to do a lot of pulling, rebuilding and installing engines and if the the starter sounded good when driving in to pull the engine I always sent that starter out to be rebuilt. Been through that starter nightmare to many times sometime it took longer to fix the starter than it did to pull and install the engine.
Terry

[Hacksaw]

Originally Posted by Tom Goldman

Do you have a aftermarket crankshaft ?
Some aftermarket cranks have a thicker crank flange which moves the flexplate closer to the starter drive which can prevent the starter drive from spinning out and engaging properly.
Most aftermarket starters come with a pair of shims which move the drive away from the flexplate.

Wouldn't a thicker flange on the crank move the flexplate farther away from the starter?