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#1 |
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No. The nose on the starter is in a different location. But you stated you used the paperclip for spacing then it tells me they are a match.
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#2 |
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Have somewhat of same problem, (sorta). Been through 3 flex plates in 2 seasons. Just wears teeth out. We've shimmed, checked, rechecked and come to conclusion that cheap flex plates and material coming from Chun wo ho. . BBC also, 168T.
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#3 |
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Do you have a aftermarket crankshaft ?
Some aftermarket cranks have a thicker crank flange which moves the flexplate closer to the starter drive which can prevent the starter drive from spinning out and engaging properly. Most aftermarket starters come with a pair of shims which move the drive away from the flexplate.
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Tom Goldman 1500 SG , 1506 STK |
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#4 |
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Something else I would check is the run-out of the flexplate using a dial indicator.
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Jim Kaekel 3836 STK |
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#5 |
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if a lot of run out i,ve seen guys just give a good wack with big hammer to realign .. thrust bearing will handle it
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#6 |
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Stock GM starters were often a horror show to make work without the problems you have.
Been there a million times in my mechanic days I tried everything including using a rat tail file in the starter mounting holes to move starter closer or farther away from the block. Tried different starters with various noses....rebuilds usually. There were some different noses, some even were cast iron noses and manual trans might be different than an auto flexplate There is no easy answer. Even the aftermarket gear reduction starters can do it but shimming usually fixes it.
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Rich Biebel S/C 1479 Stock 147R Last edited by Rich Biebel; 01-25-2022 at 06:30 PM. |
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#7 |
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The right cast iron nose has helped with problems on a few BBC's that have come through the shop. The flywheel run out rears it's head, esp when I have a warped one on the balance. Not a good thing for balance.. I've thrown away a few that had the ring welded on elliptical. Good luck hunting down the issue.
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Adger Smith (Former SS) |
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#8 |
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I assume your starter bearings and starter drive are healthy. I remember a BBC block my brother and I had that did the same thing. We machined the mating surface of the starter. Not sure it solved the problem but it was much better. Don't remember how much we removed but if you go to far you can always shim back. Maybe try it with a nosepiece you don't care about (ie not a cast iron nosepiece). If you find this is the problem machine the block next time it is out so you can use any unmachined starter. Can you use a start retard device? Good luck, Ray
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Ray Bassett I/SA 1687, SS/DA 1687 "SuperPro is both", unknown |
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#9 |
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I used to do a lot of pulling, rebuilding and installing engines and if the the starter sounded good when driving in to pull the engine I always sent that starter out to be rebuilt. Been through that starter nightmare to many times sometime it took longer to fix the starter than it did to pull and install the engine.
Terry |
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#10 | |
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