Chevy II front end alignment

[Brian Fink]

Way back in 1981 the National Dragster had an article regarding this very issue . The bottom line was camber should be 0 to1/4 degree positive and caster should be at least 3 degrees positive ( more is better ; try to achieve parallel with tie rods and control arms ).Keep in mind you may have to heat and bend the steering arms for the best result .

[James Perrone]

Go to an older experience Aligment guy
I had my 67 nova done recently
The modern alignment people don’t know what to do

[prostockpete1]

maybe get ahold of Eddie Rezac from Wahoo Nebraska on this site .. he knows all the front end tricks including selling his reconfigured center link for chevy ll .s

[Billy Nees]

Alright look here's the deal, You've caught me under the influence or I wouldn't even bother.
Try and keep the camber positive. 1/4 positive is fine. For every 10 MPH over 100 MPH you should try and have 1* positive caster. If you're going 130 MPH, then you need 3* positive caster at least.
The modified center link is a good thing. You want to try and get the tie rod assembly to be roughly the same length as the lower a-frame.
I've bent steering knuckles before. Especially on Chevy IIs (not the best thing in the world). If you can lower the tie rod then drill out the steering knuckle for a 1/2" bolt. Put a rod end in the tie rod sleeve. Start putting spacers between the steering knuckle and the rod end (outer tie rod) and start checking for "bump" steer.
It's better if you can do it on an old mechanical machine because you're going to be raising and lowering the front of the car through it's travel.
It's very time consuming but worth it.

Now, back to Jose!

[Mark Yacavone]

Okay...Only had one beer with dinner so I hope I'm qualified.
You said S/S so I assume you have replaced the strut rod rubbers with heims. You can pull the lower control arms forward some to get enough caster.The upper arms can be shimmed back too...as long as you've got a fairly small front tire so they don't hit the headers.
As mentioned, ideally you want the tie rod ends to line up with the lower ball joint and inner pivot point, whatever that takes. The camber eccentric should be tacked in place, once set. Let's see..what else? Toe in an 1/8th..Standard stuff there.
Meanwhile, if you can limit the front end travel, go ahead then. The toe in gets really wacky at the top ;-)

[G money]

You will have to radius the lower front fender. I cut a pie shape out and push the return edge forward mig weld . I have 3 degrees and run a 27.5 front tire.

G. Walters F/SA 1770

[Jim Parsons]

Caution on modifying the drag link as I had one break “next” to the weld on our bracket car last year turning onto the track to make a pass…..! It had been welded by someone prior to our purchase who obviously didn’t understand proper procedure.

FYI: Recommend Eddie’s stuff as he knows what he doing and it works.