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Just FYI, I saw a lifter exactly like the one in the OP, during an online seminar. The diagnosis was EXCESSIVE amounts of ZDDP in the oil. Apparently, people are playing "chemist" with oils, without knowing what they're doing. And, of course, there's always those who think, "if a little is good, more is better, and too much is just right". Doesn't really work with additive packages in motor oil. Once you exceed a certain concentrations, additives such as ZDDP and moly disulfide are no long additives, but rather pollutants and contaminants. They cause damage, fall out of suspension (ever seen a 1/4" plus of gray mud in the bottom of your oil pan?) and clog oil filters.
It should be noted that, over the years, there have been multiple incidences of oil additive packages being incompatible with certain components, a prime example is that several years back, the Joe Gibbs oils were causing a specific DLC coating to fail in the NASCAR Cup series engines. The DLC flaked off in just a few laps. Never been a huge fan of DLC to begin with, it is a very "picky" thing. It doesn't like certain materials (it cannot be used against cast iron), it doesn't like certain processes, the various versions are NOT all the same, and it doesn't like certain oils or additive packages. I have not tried it personally, but many are saying "Oil Extreme" is a good additive, used correctly. However, as with anything else, it is NOT going to be compatible with every oil.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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I’ve also read about issues relating to ring seal if one adds too much zinc to their oil.
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1189 F/SA Defunzalo Racing Enterprises |
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So...
Does someone make an oil with the proper additives package? Looking for that "Goldilocks" zone... Not too much... Not too little... But JUuuST RIGHT! Last edited by L.Fite; 10-29-2023 at 06:04 PM. |
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#4 |
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I'm sure there are quite a few good choices on the market. Personally, I've had good luck with Driven oil in my engine so far. I used their break-in oil, br-30, and their semisynthetic racing oil, gp-1. Not super pricy, and seems to do a good job.
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#5 | |
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One person you might talk to is Lake Speed Jr. He works at Total Seal, he's a tribologist. I have had good success with Royal Purple. Others speak highly of Amsoil, which is an oil that David Vizard says works well with Oil Extreme. As Doug said, some have had good luck with the Driven products. I have also used both Lucas and Brad Penn successfully.
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lake@totalseal.com |
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I know stockers must be running higher spring pressures and more exotic cam profiles then the average circle track or bracket car. I've never owned a roller cam, maybe someday. The last 2 I broke in I did use "break in" oil, in the past I used non detergent 30w or regular 30w with GM EOS additive. Break in is always high anxiety no matter what especially after all of the failures you hear about.
As far as oil goes I've used just about everything on my last bracket motor. I used regular Mobil with Lucas ZDDP additive, Valvoline VR-1, Lucas Hot Rod oil, Mobil 1 10w30 with Lucas additive, Mobil 1 15w-50 no additive and I've run it on AV gas, 110 and Methanol. Valve lash was always spot on. Howards solid flat with the laser hole on a Howards tight lash cam. |
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I'm sure it depends from combination to combination, as well as the "harshness" of the cam profile, but it seems like on .390/.410 small block Chevrolet stuff, once the duration @.050 gets into the 270s, cast cams and regular lifters don't seem to last very long. This mostly being down to the added spring pressure in order to control the more radical lobe. I've had good luck on multiple engines with solid lifters from Clay Smith Cams. I asked over the phone who manufactures them, and I got the response Howards/Johnson.
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