Crap, th350 emergency

[JP1738]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

D, If your T350 doesn't have a 2.75 low, I wouldn't put too much more into it.
Your car needs a T 200, but at least you know you can run under the index with what you've got. If you decide to patch it up, it shouldn't cost too much, at that hp level.
It is quite possible that the converter is full of trash by now, so you'll want to figure that into the equation too.

Very true, I've had another user reach out with the same sentiment. I'll flush it out and see if it's packed with crud. Might have to send it off and gone through. Probably try to loosen it a touch while I'm at it. Any good recommendations that could get a converter turned around pretty quick in the NC/SC area? If possible, I'd like to throw the new trans in and test again this weekend to make sure the new trans is good to go. If I can find a local place, I'll just drive it there so I don't have to wait on or risk shipping.

[Henrys Toy]

Originally Posted by JP1738

Very true, I've had another user reach out with the same sentiment. I'll flush it out and see if it's packed with crud. Might have to send it off and gone through. Probably try to loosen it a touch while I'm at it. Any good recommendations that could get a converter turned around pretty quick in the NC/SC area? If possible, I'd like to throw the new trans in and test again this weekend to make sure the new trans is good to go. If I can find a local place, I'll just drive it there so I don't have to wait on or risk shipping.

Good afternoon Dawson and to all,
I think you should take Mark Y.'s advice and maybe give him a call directly.
He has guided me on my THM200 build and is extremely knowledgeable on Racing Transmissions, among other things. Unfortunately the more you run a trans with something disintegrating internally, the debris goes everywhere - that includes the converter. The only way I know to properly clean the inside of a converter is to cut it open. There may be a machine at a Transmission rebuilder that can pressure wash it that I don't know about. Either way find out before rebuilding the trans and running it and sending more stuff that was stuck in the converter through it - again.
Now might be a good time to just make a good game plan up and then follow that. Racing 101 - we all had to start somewhere, and so far you've done well, but this stuff is too expensive to be making split decisions and possibly do more harm then good, that would be money and time wasted.
You might want to contact the original converter builder for advice and give Mark a shout - then formulate a Game Plan from there.
The very best of luck on your journey here,
Don't look at this as a loss, but something to learn from for your future.

Respectfully,
Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA

[Eman]

You get my respect for building your car, great job! T350's are not complicated, you can build it yourself with a little patience. If you built your car you can build any tools you might need to do the job.

[dragracerray]

Originally Posted by JP1738

Any good recommendations that could get a converter turned around pretty quick in the NC/SC area? If possible,

All my converters are done at Atlantic Coast Converter in Conway South Carolina. This is a drag racing family that knows what customer service is.

https://www.facebook.com/atlanticcoast.converters.3/

Ray
Dave Swimm is a former SS Pontiac racer. He always raced Pontiac.

[JP1738]

Here's some aftermath images for you guys.



Converter fluid looks brand new. It appears the filter kept most, if not all of the clutch material out of it.

[1320racer]

so what's the plan to be ready for Gainesville?

[JP1738]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

so what's the plan to be ready for Gainesville?

I don't really know yet. I've got a brand new transmission sitting in the floor of the shop ready to go in, but everyone on here seems to be really stressing the potential debris in the converter and I'm afraid to put it all back together without cutting my converter open and cleaning it. At this point I can't find any evidence that there is any debris in the converter after flushing and draining it over the course of this week. The fluid looked new the first time I drained it and has not revealed any additional debris since I started pouring fluid in it to flush it out. I also have not torn into my transmission to see what came apart or failed, so I don't know what the material is from or if it could have made it's way into the converter.

[Mark Ugrich]

Originally Posted by JP1738

I don't really know yet. I've got a brand new transmission sitting in the floor of the shop ready to go in, but everyone on here seems to be really stressing the potential debris in the converter and I'm afraid to put it all back together without cutting my converter open and cleaning it. At this point I can't find any evidence that there is any debris in the converter after flushing and draining it over the course of this week. The fluid looked new the first time I drained it and has not revealed any additional debris since I started pouring fluid in it to flush it out. I also have not torn into my transmission to see what came apart or failed, so I don't know what the material is from or if it could have made it's way into the converter.

It’s always difficult to determine what’s inside a converter after something fails.If there is absolutely no sign of metal or clutch material you may be ok.The correct thing to do is cut it apart and check.The fluid path in a 350 starts by going through the filter, into the pump and then to the converter.
Then to the valve body and the rest of the transmission.Maybe your trans guy can help advise if it’s worth taking a chance.

[Mark Yacavone]

Yes , when racers tell you you should have the converter cut open and cleaned and inspected , they are certainly correct.
However, you can take a chance,by not doing so, in your situation.
Most of the long term fine debris in a converter, ends up around the overlap, where the weld seam is, due to centrifugal force . That's probably not going anywhere.
It there's anything recent in there, it's possible to flush it up.

First thing you should do is set it on the bench and place a clear plastic tube all the way in and down to the pilot area. Siphon the remaining ATF out over the edge of the bench.
Then, if you have a parts cleaner, with fresh, clean solvent in it, place the tube all the way in and let it run for a while.
If you don't have that available, then pick up a gallon of mineral spirits and pour in as much as you can. Place a T350 input shaft in the unit and spin the turbine back and forth to stir up the fluid. Then quickly dump what you can into a clean pan. Finish by siphoning out the remainder of the solvent.
Then blow it out thoroughly , best you can .
If you haven't found a big chunks by now, you'll probably be okay, assuming the bearings and thrust washers aren't falling apart.

Disclaimer...You heard this from my ghost writer. Not from me.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by JP1738

I don't really know yet. I've got a brand new transmission sitting in the floor of the shop ready to go in, but everyone on here seems to be really stressing the potential debris in the converter and I'm afraid to put it all back together without cutting my converter open and cleaning it. At this point I can't find any evidence that there is any debris in the converter after flushing and draining it over the course of this week. The fluid looked new the first time I drained it and has not revealed any additional debris since I started pouring fluid in it to flush it out. I also have not torn into my transmission to see what came apart or failed, so I don't know what the material is from or if it could have made it's way into the converter.

Dawson, based on your bolded comments above, I'd reinstall it and go race. Then change the fluid again after Gainesville. I've done the same numerous times over 3 decades without issue. I'm not a believer of cutting open converters to clean or "freshen". My converters only go back to the manufacturer if broken. Put a magnet in the pan if you already don't have one in there.

Who's converter are you running and what does it flash to and fall back to on the shift?