Stock Eliminator car choices

mopar jeff · 08-26-2009, 09:10 AM

I am new to the Stock Eliminator game, and wanted to ask a question. Is it better to find a car closer to the lower end of the NHRA factor, or the larger end. Would a car closer to 11.00 be better to start with than a car closer to 11.99, just as an example. Or does it not even matter. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Jeff Lee · 08-26-2009, 09:31 AM

You can adjust the weight to the bottom (11.00 in your example) so it doesn't matter. FYI, NHRA allows you to move up or down one class from the "natural" class the vehicle falls in. In each case of movement, you are still allowed to go to the lightest end of the class.

Eric Merryfield · 08-26-2009, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mopar jeff

I am new to the Stock Eliminator game, and wanted to ask a question. Is it better to find a car closer to the lower end of the NHRA factor, or the larger end. Would a car closer to 11.00 be better to start with than a car closer to 11.99, just as an example. Or does it not even matter. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

It all depends upon the classes, and how fast you are in relation to other cars in the class. IE my affordable H/S/I truck will more likely than not get smoked heads up in the NHRA, and its all up to the luck of the draw, but in the IHRA, its pretty obscure so heads up isn't as much as a thought.

Any way you cut it, you will spend more to go faster, just make sure to buy something you can afford, understand, and like to look at in the garage, or trailer.

Your skill as a bracket racer and tuner, will have a lot more to do with your sucess than the speed of the car.

Enjoy

Eric Merryfield · 08-26-2009, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mopar jeff

I am new to the Stock Eliminator game, and wanted to ask a question. Is it better to find a car closer to the lower end of the NHRA factor, or the larger end. Would a car closer to 11.00 be better to start with than a car closer to 11.99, just as an example. Or does it not even matter. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Oh, sorry, I misread it! For example my 70 challenger 383 is 10.90 something natural of F round it up to 11 flat for G, or down to 10.50 for F, from there it depends upon you competition in class and what you prefer how much ballast to add or remove.

Jeff is right, it doesn't really matter.

mopar jeff · 08-26-2009, 10:38 AM

So if I wanted to run O stock, it doesn't give me any advantage to find a car close to the 15.00 factor versus a car that might be near the bottom with a 15.99 factor. It can all be manipulated with weight, to make up for the differences. Can I assume this is correct? Thanks for all the replies so far.

X-TECH MAN · 08-26-2009, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mopar jeff

So if I wanted to run O stock, it doesn't give me any advantage to find a car close to the 15.00 factor versus a car that might be near the bottom with a 15.99 factor. It can all be manipulated with weight, to make up for the differences. Can I assume this is correct? Thanks for all the replies so far.

Correct.

mopar jeff · 08-26-2009, 10:44 AM

That helps alot. Thanks.

Harry 6674 · 08-26-2009, 11:24 AM

Just because a car fits a class doesn't mean it can run the numbers for that class. You have to be careful to pick a good combo or a class with few cars. Check out the records and class winners. Or you can find an untried combo thats way underfactored and kick butt. Good luck.

Blingmaster · 08-31-2009, 09:10 PM

Thought I would add my 2cents worth...Am involved with son's racing program we have 4 cars 2 super stockers ,2 stockers....ss/ma ssgt/ha j/sa u/sa... I enjoy leaving with front wheels off ground ,BUT I would rather drive u/sa only from point I can screw up first.....My theory has been with slow car no hooking issues, limited breakage,better slick budget. Disadvantage more critical of weather conditions,wind,elevation etc. Heavier vehicles to tow. Our last record holder u/sa weight 4430. just to break 14 second barrier. Most people do not realize it takes as much if not more effort to get slower cars to index. Unless you are Neil Smedley , Billy Nees just to name a couple. Hope this helps. DD

Bob Pagano · 09-01-2009, 08:27 AM

Mark Yacavone's Mustang leaves wheels up and is still the best buy in the country right now.

08-26-2009, 09:10 AM	#1
mopar jeff Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 219 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Stock Eliminator car choices I am new to the Stock Eliminator game, and wanted to ask a question. Is it better to find a car closer to the lower end of the NHRA factor, or the larger end. Would a car closer to 11.00 be better to start with than a car closer to 11.99, just as an example. Or does it not even matter. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

08-26-2009, 09:31 AM	#2
Jeff Lee VIP Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Anthem, Arizona Posts: 2,766 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Stock Eliminator car choices You can adjust the weight to the bottom (11.00 in your example) so it doesn't matter. FYI, NHRA allows you to move up or down one class from the "natural" class the vehicle falls in. In each case of movement, you are still allowed to go to the lightest end of the class. __________________ Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX

08-26-2009, 10:38 AM	#5
mopar jeff Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 219 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Stock Eliminator car choices So if I wanted to run O stock, it doesn't give me any advantage to find a car close to the 15.00 factor versus a car that might be near the bottom with a 15.99 factor. It can all be manipulated with weight, to make up for the differences. Can I assume this is correct? Thanks for all the replies so far.

08-26-2009, 10:44 AM	#7
mopar jeff Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 219 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Stock Eliminator car choices That helps alot. Thanks.

08-26-2009, 11:24 AM	#8
Harry 6674 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 589 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Stock Eliminator car choices Just because a car fits a class doesn't mean it can run the numbers for that class. You have to be careful to pick a good combo or a class with few cars. Check out the records and class winners. Or you can find an untried combo thats way underfactored and kick butt. Good luck.

08-31-2009, 09:10 PM	#9
Blingmaster Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: usa Posts: 83 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Stock Eliminator car choices Thought I would add my 2cents worth...Am involved with son's racing program we have 4 cars 2 super stockers ,2 stockers....ss/ma ssgt/ha j/sa u/sa... I enjoy leaving with front wheels off ground ,BUT I would rather drive u/sa only from point I can screw up first.....My theory has been with slow car no hooking issues, limited breakage,better slick budget. Disadvantage more critical of weather conditions,wind,elevation etc. Heavier vehicles to tow. Our last record holder u/sa weight 4430. just to break 14 second barrier. Most people do not realize it takes as much if not more effort to get slower cars to index. Unless you are Neil Smedley , Billy Nees just to name a couple. Hope this helps. DD

09-01-2009, 08:27 AM	#10
Bob Pagano VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: New Holland, PA Mooresville,NC Posts: 1,163 Likes: 238 Liked 16 Times in 11 Posts	Re: Stock Eliminator car choices Mark Yacavone's Mustang leaves wheels up and is still the best buy in the country right now. __________________ Bob Pagano A/SA

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